• Energy Budget in Hybrid Core

    01/15/2020 at 04:57 0 comments


    This present post illustrates a few simple steps allowing a quick 'n easy evaluation of how much energy one can expect to be necessary just to inject 1 temporary Heat Charge deep inside my Near-Symetrical Reversible LAVACaspsule, or more exacly half of it as this applies to 1 Customized Classic/Bronze Sherlock VaporGenie pipe (fitted with my Hybrid Core):

    As usual since the last few years i've adopted a 17-Holes Metal Disc thickness of 1.0 mm, which coïncides perfectly with recent "brain-dead" high-compatibility/split-path PinHole scenarios specially optimized to invite duplication...

    Universal (Split-Paths) Twin-Cut On-Top Core-PinHole system {2019-Dec-4}

    As for the disc's diameter it's been defined here as 12.55 mm, which combined to thickness translates as a volume (less 17 #53 holes) to be filled with one of 2 metallic alloy types, chosen to determine specific heat capacity and density as intermediary figures, both found on metalurgy datasheets from www.theworldmaterial.com.  Those parameters were required to perform further calculations in terms of mass, temperature differential and energy:

    In this exercise Stainless Steel alloys 316/316L and 420/430 represent the weakly-magnetic and the strongly-magnetic boundaries of my applications range, respectively.  Temperatues haven't been measured to be honest, those are nothing but arbritary instead;  in addition lets keep in mind heat comes from inside in this IH-driven "Plan-A" scenario while in clean-burning butane fall-back "Plan-B" mode heat would need to pass the SiC Front Puck and turn it dim-red first.  So, as previously stated elsewhere the stored Heat Charge matching a 25 ~ 30 mg puff as workload should stick around 100 Joules IMO;,  maybe half, maybe twice but not as far as fivefold:

    With weight of a single puff evaluated via "Plan-B".

    Take note it was the very same On-Line calculators as linked below which actually generated these outputs, so please feel free to duplicate such elementary reasoning by applying it to your own situation, if comparable or similar!

    [ https://www.omnicalculator.com/math/cylinder-volume ]
    Omni Calculator - Cylinder Volume Calculator

    [ https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/density ]
    Omni Calculator - Density

    [ https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/specific-heat ]
    Omni Calculator - Specific Heat Calculator

    Then share the fun!!

  • Universal (Split-Paths) Twin-Cut On-Top Core-PinHole system

    12/04/2019 at 17:24 0 comments


    My reflexion on the problem of defining basic design criterias for a common system capable of accomodating both the Classic (Wood/Aluminium) and Bronze Sherlock model lines is nearly over, there's the matter of easy maintenance still on my mind as i remain somewhat worried about the PinHole path(s) getting clogged with vegetal debris, which requires me to decide if i want the external On-Top finger setting PinHole directly aligned with its Screw-Base side counterpart, or still set at a 90 degress angle to put safe distance between heat and skin via the internal half-circular path pairs connecting 2 Core-PinHoles to it...  Do i want to see light through this conduit or do i value comfort over such slim maintenance issue?  While ultimately an obvious solution would be to implement a plain plug/pull spring-loaded style of mounting system to join the Monobloc to its Full-Metal Top shell together...

    Anyway my previous easy simple 1-cut PinHole experiments imply trade-offs like going "permanent" (or half-manual only...) and most specially in absence of a full Hybrid Core scenario, so i'm back to seeking enhanced performance instead of lousy bottom-line tool requirements.  This is the result:

    Both the Top-side and Handle-side internal paths are now aligned while the modding procedure has been significantly simplified nonetheless:

    Here's the catch...  A 1.5 in. cutting disc will conveniently create a Twin-Cut pair of Screw-Base PinHole paths while also weakening the metal where it's been made thinner, which allowed me to use tiny hard nails to punch an even tinier pair of internal holes from behind which still shortened the double drilling job quite a great deal.  Here's how it looked before the punching:

    Take note the flat annular feature must suffer as little scratching as possible or vegetal debris shall tend to stick kind of quick.  In any case it wasn't possible to dig into the annular mating surface any more than this in order to preserve containment in *ALL* supported handle configurations, with the Class (wood) containment zone represented by the redish circle mark.

    It may feel a bit challenging at first but practice makes perfect and i find hard to reduce tool requirements beyond only depending on a hand drill, a disc cutter and a 3/64" (dia.) drill bit or similar...

    Keep in mind Fresh-Air injection occurs inbetween my 17-Holes Metal Disc and associated Brass Wrapped Top-of-Bowl SiC Puck, which by the way reminds me the twin-cut should improve mechanical retention of that later composite item as the sharp freshly-cut edges inside the Screw-Base (auxiliary core) cavity can be expected to bite into the Brass Screen at a microscopic level.  So i figure the combined effect of Fresh-Air reaching the metal core directly via 2 PinHole slots instead of 1 definitively solved old concerns over symetry though it never bothered me even using my previous minimalistic 1-cut strategy, to be honest.


    It's about time i proceed to some update with a few more pictures, so lets start by the end:

    Personally i'd never use wood again but this is in a simplified context aiming for the widest possible audience, among persons who already own a VG Classic of Bronze Sherlock but who feel compelled to try such adjustment as i once did though without too much involvement or agravation, presumably.  As a Prototyping Platform that's fine, but although the core can still be displaced closer to it workload in the bowl that's still quite a long Flame Catcher funnel length for use with a blue (torch) flame, because extra-hot exhaust gases (H2O + CO2) tend to accumulate due to the augmented path...  That's why my next Full-Metal experiments will be much shorter than a Genuine VaporGenie Spherical Top, my target height being 23 and 26 mm tall/deep to be exact.  In comparison lets remind the reader that a wood top as shown above measures 30 when excluding its metal...

    Read more »

  • IH-driven Cooktop Coil reshaping...

    08/02/2019 at 20:37 0 comments

    Almost 10 years ago i suggested the idea of exploiting such a control board connector as shown below in order to implement some computer interface, which never happened:

    Now that i've transitioned to pulse mode gaining control ain't likely to really matter anymore, yet i've got to decide how to turn a flat plannar coil into a cylindrical one...

    For example going from this:

    [ https://www.google.com/search?q=Portable+Induction+Cooktop&tbm=isch ]

    Google Images:  Portable Induction Cooktop

    To this:

    [ https://www.google.com/search?q=Flameless+Lab+Sterilizer&tbm=isch ]

    Google Images:  Flameless Lab Sterilizer

    In other words is it even possible to reshape it without changing the apparent inductance seen by my old IH Cooktop, hoping to avoid any need to adjust component values accordingly?  Or would it still work for my purpose if i wind up that coil into a tube and never bother about it:  e.g. won't safety features trip?  And even if they do, can't i just managed to obtain the few seconds necessary for injection of a Heat Charge into my LAVA hybrid Core, or a LAVAGen2 Core for that matter??

    Or perhaps just SiC Foam alone:

    Lets admit i have more questions than answers to propose at the moment.  Not to mention extra caution is required when dealing with high voltage!