4 days ago •
This remains to be put in convenient graphical form but that's requiring more time/energy investment than i can afford to comit at the moment, so here's a simple list reflecting my notes so far...
1st of all my aluminium Full-Length Yellow-flame/Classic Compatible top is crafted into some bulk material rod that measures 26.0 mm x 31.5 mm or 1¼" (dia.) once finished as an outer shell. Its Flame-Catcher side was performed using a large 14.3 mm or 9/16" (dia.) drill bit then i manually shaped it into a conduit of spherical profile. The Base-side (Monobloc cavity) was done using 15.9 mm or 5/8" (dia.) and penetrating no farther than 19.4 mm deep instead - or was it 13.8 mm? That's why i'll need a drawing...
Ayway it leaves behind a ~6.6 mm long path for my Flame-Catcher aperture. Also, there's a 25 mm (dia.) x ~2.6 mm deep annular Base Recess into which i dig a 19 mm (dia.) x 1.6 to 2 mm deep Internal (hidden) Annular PinHole Channel in order to connect with an On-Top Core-PinHole path directly, while an auxiliary PinHole path can be reached from the Base-side connecting to a handle using this "universal" Mating System:
This is actually fall-back compatible, with both internal PinHole paths partly isolated by a "Top-of-Bowl SiC Puck" wrapped in Brass Screen for mechanical support. That way a genuine VG Classic or Bronze Sherlock handle only disables the Base-side path while the finger-resting site on a top remains functional, not to mention such split dual-path strategy proved to be convenient as this is tolerant of permanent leaks (as when no effort is made to gain manual control, for example)...
When installed a genuine-length 20.2 mm tall/deep VG Monobloc effectively separates both annular recesses while a copper O-Ring seals the space between it and my Flame-Catcher aperture; its Screw-Base Mating Disc is nearly 0.9 mm thick so this reduces the Base-side recess to about 1.7 mm deep, with the rest of a Monobloc's Screw-Base protruding over a length of ~1.3 mm if i'm not mistaking. Overall assembly length amounts to 27.3 mm deep/tall, keep in mind a Base-side recess exceeding 2.5 mm may result in friction with its mating handle depending on the model, the Bronze Sherlock handle to be more specific. Total mass of my complete/finished Full-Length cylindrical aluminium top ranges around 43.4 g, while experimenting with a shorter brass version i found it could reach 92.9 g - which is excessive in Near-Symetrical Reversible LAVACapsule scenarios.
Future attempts may eventually aim for some closer emulation of VG's Sphere which is ~35.15 mm deep/tall with a ~40.25 mm diameter.
5 days ago •
Electromagnetic injection of a Heat Charge involves considerations about mass, e.g. the more ferro-magnetic metal there is to get "excited" wirelessly the more power an/or time it takes to reach a target temperature. By the way, previous simple evaluations refered to this formula below:
...and also a couple on-line "calculators".
The important idea to keep in mind is that i'm sort of gambling on some hypothetical possibility to perform IH-driven powering of a Hybrid Core (or even a pair if using my Near-Symetrical LAVACapsule layout) based on the difference of masses and in relative absence of thermalization, or at least pulse-mode enough to avoid turning capsules into heaters as well. Actually, looking at preliminary numbers i realize a pair of susceptors don't even represent 2 % of a Full-Length Aluminium LAVACapsule joined by a Bowl Ring which also behaves like a "Flux Concentrator"... For example:
So it we add together 2 alu. tops + 1 ferro-magnetic Bowl Ring with Outlet ("fumet") Collector holes (+ 1 Containment Jacket with cotton inside) then total (heat-conductive) metal mass amounts to almost a hundred grams... Take note if it's IH-driven while airflow is made unidirectional then this should result in 2-stage heating similar to the Sublimator of Enrico Bouchard, which has been claimed to generate a fumet composed of thinner microscopic droplets, in turn offering an easier inhalation experience in principle.
A safety (water-toy) buffer would be most desirable in preliminary testing, just to be cautious while exploring Power "Micro-Bursting" that operates on induction.
05/31/2019 at 12:56 •
This may actually support a double On-Top "Core PinHole" feature + purging of auxiliary cavity under my bowl, which may translate as 3-Fingers manual control...
Anyway it was necessary to determine where to set an anchor point for that bowl and now i know:
Ideally this boundary also correspond to a containment seal, possibly not excluding additional functionality, eventually.
M'well, at least i was able to solve a complex 3D routing problem in some very time-efficient (though agressive!) manner...
M'well, as previously illustrated i finally realized PinHole functions had to be swapped around as it feels much more logical to lift my left-hand thumb during the pre-heat phase than it would to lift my index instead - not to mention it also feels more convenient to "pump" using the middle index section (located between my distal interphalangeal and proximal interphalangeal joints, e.g. right under this finger's "flexor tendon"): otherwise i'd actually happen to be moving my index tip closer to a torch flame and that just didn't seem right. Hence reversing roles to make it a lot safer, if not more intuitive.
Don't pay too much attention to label colours in those 2 images. More update in preparation soon...
Illustrating why it's so difficult to correctly align in 3D:
This consideration compounds with a need to decide if there really needs to be single-hand 2-fingers control at all, which in turn eventually requires to choose between the 2 slightly different handle-holding situations as evoked above (e.g. using middle finger section instead of index fingertip). Most fortunately crippled hands ain't a serious issue in such context as a split PinHole path actually proves most forgiving about specific configurations, even leaks to some point...
Here's a bottom/inside view of the post-vaporization cavity located right under my bowl:
This offers access to both sides of my "Top-of-Bowl Brass-Wrap Screen", via a "primary" path injecting fresh air directly inside that Sphere's Hybrid Core, or through its optional/complementary "auxiliary" counterpart. Although 2 or 3 fingers experiments may feel necessary at this moment i'm expecting some future simplifications might happen to be useful too. Does it work fine enough just having a "permanent" PinHole path? Or enjoying a mix of permanent/manual PH paths as was realized below:
The MouthPiece base (with its PH-Ring permanent injection of fresh air near a "DuckLips" MP) always seemed appropriate and i also found it still felt OKay when not attempting to control a Top's PH path with my right hand. Thumb-operated control of the auxilirary PH path (in a split-paths On-Top scenario) added some satisfying dimension to the experience while an absence of such feature wouldn't have been detrimental, yet that's significantly different from my former PinHole tests as illustrated below: