04/08/2021 at 17:04 •
After four weeks I have finished the project now.
METEOR runs well, it´s lightweight (13,8kg / 30.4 lbs) and looks sporty.
I made a picture at its first tour.
METEOR - click for high resolution
There are no issues with the bottom bracket or the chainwheel. Everything is working as intended.
All the best - ride carefully - stay safe!
04/08/2021 at 16:53 •
The Handle Bar
The original handle bar was terminally rusty. Fortunately, it could be easily removed from the steering head.
I have maintained the head ball bearings with new grease and assembled it carefully. And the rusty handlebar stem is replaced by a refurbished aluminum part.
The aluminum handlebar stem from the DONATOR fits well to the METEOR
A steel handlebar "Sport Modell" (NOS from the 1960s) looks better compared to a modern straight aluminum bar. A pair of good brake levers also came from the DONATOR.
The new handlebar completed
Result: All handlebar parts together look really neat, especially with the red vintage grips on it.
Gear cable cog and original 'KARSTADT' decal
The frame offers no cable guidings neither cable stops, as mentioned before. The gear cable is lead by a cog instead via a shift cable routing commonly located under the bottom bracket.
The original Predom Romet headlight remains - precisely because its cute ugliness. It´s powered by a classic bottle dynamo (6 Volts). The tail light is a classic type DIY LED lighting instead of a small 6V lamp.
Huge plastic headlight
Dynamo and tail light
DIY LED equipment :-D
To be honest, the head light is not brighter than a tea candle... but who cares. The main thing is: There's any light to please a police officer.
Check before doing a shakedown
- All electric cabling is fitted with cable ties;
- gear shifting is doing well;
- nuts and bolts are tightened;
- handlebar is tightended well;
- brakes are adjusted;
- tires are inflated to 5 bar / 72 psi
- kick stand is working
- saddle is adjusted to comfort height
04/08/2021 at 15:43 •
The mentioned Biopace chainring and crank arm set (refer to https://hackaday.io/page/10435-5-the-chainwheel-pt-1 ) were the next issue.
As mentioned also, the bottom bracket is a square taper model. The Shimano crank arms do have square taper also, but there are nice distinctions (refer 'ISO' vs. 'J.I.S'). To cut a long story short, the chainwheel took position on a wrong chainline, right of center, after mounting.
To bring it back to the middle there are four options:
- To file out the square taper hole in the crank arm;
- To choose another bottom bracket with JIS Sq. taper;
- To choose another bottom bracket with narrower axle;
- To shift the chainring.
For sure, #1 is a genuine hillbilly 'solution' that may ruin the crank arm. To be serious, it is a dead duck.
Also #2 or #3 bring up more work than wanted, remember my Waterloo with the BB mounting...
At last #4 will remain.
Chainring (with distance washers) at final position
With turning over (its inner side faces out) the chainwheel *and* bringíng it to the inner position at the crank arm the chainline is shifted to a reasonable position, finally. Also the chain itself is running well with this chainring.
Missing part: Covering plug for the crank arm bolts.Result: An odd solution that should last. I have to validate it while riding.