05/23/2021 at 09:55 •
This page lists information on a 15.4" laptop display panel. For more details and other panels, check out https://hackaday.io/project/179868-all-about-laptop-display-reuse/discussion-163462 .
The cable came with an Acer Aspire 5020 series model MS2171 laptop and combines display and backlight cables.
CN1 Pin MP1017 Pin Function 1 7 VBATT 2 7 VBATT 3 4 DBrt via 10k 4 5 EN via 100k 5 9 GND 6 9 GND
[Here I had to delete and re-do the table because the WYSIWYG editor does not allow one to get the cursor past a table if the table is the last item in a page. Copied and pasted tables are completely garbled, so one has to completely redo a table to recover the page document. Thank you #Hackaday.io Project for not fixing this bug for more than 3 years.]
Thanks to a related discussion on stackexchange the pinout is inferred below:
I'm sure it won't hurt to wire up the GND lines between the differential pairs. Interestingly, DVR_CLK is omitted, as is GND on pin 1. Some cables connect pin 1 to VCC, so care must be taken not to create shorts later. The rest of the table of the LTN154AT07 panel seems to be in agreement with the LP154W01 connector, down to the block of NC pins 20-30. U1 pin 7 is connected to GND.
06/13/2020 at 11:10 •
Some manufacturers make low power AC-DC modules for small appliances, IoT devices and smart meters. MeanWell may come to mind (IRM-05-3.3), but one of the most cost-competitive modules is the Hi-Link HLK-PM03.
Here I will have a closer look at how the module is built. There are of course other teardowns out there, but not necessarily of the 3.3V variant, and you never know if you're going to find something others could not or had not seen.
So what's inside the HLK-PM03? With a silicone potting compound that readily unmoulds from the enclosure, the module was definitely inviting further investigation.
05/26/2020 at 21:26 •
A couple of years back I bought "MakeBlock" parts from the XY Plotter v1.0 kit for a low price that reflected the hot mess this construction was in its early conception.
Here begins my journey which can be summarized as: I rebuilt an XY Plotter with most of the parts, machined my own bits and pieces and then time had other plans for me. And so this thing has been sitting around for another 3 years ... because the belt tensioners were missing.
The better isn't just the enemy of the good, and I've had many better ideas along the years, none of which ever materialized. So, it needed dealing with:
The tuner has a worm drive to create rotary motion and a toothed pulley to get back to linear belt movement. Consequently, one could attach the belt directly to the worm wheel, then unroll the wheel and replace it with a perforated metal band. You want the ones that have punched holes, not the embossed threads.The proof-of-principle build I made was more about figuring out how to attach the belt to the clamp strips than about the tensioning or mounting. The hose clamp has a strip attached to the formed housing which becomes the fixed end.
Build process (first shot, consider modifications mentioned later):
- unroll the hose clamp - for me this was a 1/4-5/8" size one,
- figure out how long the fixed end needs to be to attach the belt,
- cut with metal snips,
- Remove bridges. I used a Cr-V steel chisel held at 10-15° to score the two sides, then snapped the weakened bridges with a screw driver.
- File the corners with a square needle file,
- insert belt protection elements (see later),
- attach belts.
Seen every now and then in beginner solutions, the belt is pulled over a sharp edge. While cheap GT2 belts should come with aramide fibers, it's generally a bad idea to abuse them this way. Other belt types can be glass fiber-reinforced and really don't like minimum bend radius violations.Read more »