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3D printing with Original Prussa I3 MK2/S

Olaf BaeyensOlaf Baeyens wrote 11/05/2016 at 20:22 • 1 min read • Like

All my projects are being build using this 3D printer Original Prussa I3 MK2. This page is about my experiences with this printer as I go.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 05/06/2018 at 02:15 point

My Prusa MK2/S has been completely upgraded to the MK2.5. It is definitely worth the upgrade!

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 05/02/2018 at 17:26 point

Just assembled the electronics box and the MK2.5 heat bed.  These are very strong magnets. The metal removable build plane is very strong but you have to be very careful to put them back on the heat bed because it will squash your fingers.

The extruder carriage will be for next time.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 04/26/2018 at 23:12 point

I received my Prussa MK2/S to MK2.2 upgrade.  Ordered on 2 November 2017.

The build plate is actually surprisingly heavy and has a very decent built. Also the metal spring plate is thicker than expected and very strong magnets.

First I will need to 3D print the parts I will need for the extruder holder.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 12/16/2017 at 02:16 point

Printing more and more with NGEN now, it is definitely my favorite filament now but I still have no good control over the first layer. I think I need to lower the printing speed for the first layer.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 12/10/2017 at 03:35 point

Printed successfully with  CorlorFabb NGEN, nozzle tempt 240 and bed temperature 85 degree,  with part cooling fan, this time support structure underspeed 80%.  Printing speed 4000 mm/min.

3 identical structures that ABS could not print. They are all 3 identical and perfectly printed.
However with NGEN I could print 33% faster. It also costs 20% less than HT. NGEN also have a glass transient of 85 C.

All there support structures came loose easily. But I had to put the "Upper/Lower Vertical Separation Layers" = 2 in Simplify3D. (Thanks for the tip Danny)

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 12/09/2017 at 22:34 point

Now trying with the print with  CorlorFabb XT, nozzle tempt 250 and bed temperature 75 degree, no part cooling fan, this time support structure underspeed 50%.  Printing speed 3000 mm/min.

It seems that I have it spot on from the first time.

XT and HT should be comparable in strength. While HT can support 100 degrees, XT only 65 degrees. NGEN can support 85 degrees but less strength (still strong when I try to break it).

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 12/09/2017 at 20:13 point

Retryring the print. CorlorFabb HT, nozzle tempt 265 and bed temperature 100 degree, no part cooling fan, this time support structure underspeed 50%.  Printing speed 3000 mm/min.

The top layer warping was caused because I printed too fast I think.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 12/09/2017 at 02:29 point

Stopped the print, thee warping is minimal compared to what I had with ABS but the top fill failed. It created loops that got stuck to the head.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 12/09/2017 at 00:52 point

CorlorFabb HT, nozzle tempt 265 and bed temperature 100 degree., lowered the live Z, and no part cooler . No warping occurred.

Now trying with a Thor part that I always had warping issues when ABS was used.

Feels like ABS but seems to have sharper corners. Definitely tough!

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 12/08/2017 at 23:58 point

CorlorFabb HT, nozzle tempt 265 and bed temperature 100 degree. I see warping happening. Need some finetuning I assume

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 12/08/2017 at 19:30 point

New ColorFabb XT, HT and a sample of titanium gray PETG filament is in. I may use it to print my next printer extruder as a test. You can never have enough spare parts of extruder holders.

The XT I want to test on a sample of the Thor robot that always failed because of warping. NGEN is already a good product but I was wondering ix XT would be even better.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 12/08/2017 at 19:26 point

The Prusa i3 MK3 is out, and I love to watch the live assembly vido's live. All 22 hours of them!

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 12/02/2017 at 23:34 point

NGEN definitely needs 4 top layers if you print with NGEN 0.2 mm layer height.

I purchased a hight performance air filtering device (Rowenta Intense Air Pure XL) because I am concerned about health issues when printing 3D material in an apartment. Up until now I opened windows to clean the air, but it is freezing outside.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/27/2017 at 21:25 point

Printer upgraded and go. I had issues with the NGEN material to stick on the bed but with cleaning it with alcohol everything was fine. During the MK2 to MK2/S upgrade I think oil form the new ball bearings and rods may have been stuck on the surface.

First test with a complicated model makes the motor control better, but NGEN has issues to fill top layers when I have 30% infill. I think I will have to increase the number of layers. (currently 3)

Now I am ready for MK2.5 in January when the upgrade comes.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/27/2017 at 01:39 point

Finally decided to take the chance and upgrade to MK2/S. I did not change the head because I was unsure if the Noctua silent fan modification would fit the modification. But all mechanical parts bearings and rods have been replaced.

Now testing, so far so good

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/25/2017 at 22:55 point

Printing with NGEN material looks good, only the top layer is less smooth than if I would have used ABS.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/25/2017 at 18:31 point

Just updated with the latest firmware update an now test printing an Raspberry pi case in NGEN.

The MK2/S mechanical upgrade will be delayed to next week since I need a casing urgently for the Rasperry pie that I will use with Movidius neural network stick.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/16/2017 at 23:31 point

I received my MK/S upgrade. Probably the only printer that expect you to print out your own 3D parts for the upgrade (they deliver with the filament).  I am delaying the upgrade because I need the printer, but the parts are already printed.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/13/2017 at 20:23 point

Just got a message that my MK2/S upgrade will arrive on Wednesday.  Sooner than expected.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/10/2017 at 23:16 point

NGEN as 4200 mm/min works great, it is unclear if my printer really gets to 4200 mm/min because the calculated time was way bigger than real time printing.

Printing with CarbonFill was not a success. The head struck the carbon many times, making the head shift ruining the model. I may not have found the correct setting yet. At this time NGEN seems to be perfect for what I probably want to do with Carbon filament.

Testing a bigger part of Thor now, see how support structures are handled. PETG has a hard time to remove the support structures and is flexible. 

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Peter OMD3D wrote 11/11/2017 at 23:18 point

Olaf, can be usefull for the Carbonfill

Printed on cool bed with blue tape at 245C-250C and then lowered to 245C to check. Speeds of 70mm at 0.2 layer.

The first top layer did an awesome job (not fully covering all) but the second was a perfect cover. On Colorfabb and most pla (except Faberdashery) I need 4 top layers to have a perfect cover. I used 20% infill with a 45/-45 pattern (s3d). The holes cover really really nicely so I assume the bridging capabilities of this filament are amazing.

Got the print with a little bit of fan (enough to cool my printed head fan) and had to raise it just a tiny bit because there was a bit of filament scrach from lower layers. After raising the fan just that bit the scratch basinshed.

I can't show photos because it's a design I made for a customer but the color black mate finish has a color like the carbon from a pencil. Amazing and super easy tonprint.

It drips quite a bit at print temperature but without touching the retractions it didn't left any strings. For dualextruders the dripping almost stops at 200C so it might need a heat setting for duals.

The black finish it's just amazing.

The print poped very easyly from the blue tape (but I had to scratch the blue tape).

Edit: The second time the object poped really nicely from the bluetape so it's totally reusable.

Peter OMD3D

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/12/2017 at 15:20 point

Thank you for the advice, there will be some time before I have time again.  I do have a colleague that printed carbon with the same printer so I will ask him what settings he used.


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