First impression of NGEN is that it feels and print like PLA and is less flexible than ABS. I currently printed at 2400 mm / min, but it could probably speed up to 4200 mm/min  which is what I am going to try now.

PETG prints are more flexible that ABS, NGEN is definitely less flexible and feels strong.

Trying the Colorfabb ngen filament on key chains that I know failed using ABS. A good reference to start with to check out the material.

The filament on that spool appears to be better quality when you look at it. But the proof will be in the pudding,

So far multiple print tests with ABS and no cooling problem. I need way more testing

The adapter I used is : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2076234

The fan used is http://noctua.at/en/nf-a4x20-pwm

The NF-A4x20 is 20 mm thick and I paid 14 euros.

I do not leave this printer alone, I live in a small apartment and I already printed replacement pars for the extruder holder just in case the fan is not good enough. 

Smoke test. No smoke, which is a good sign in this case. Wierd to not have that screaming fan blowing. You continuously doubt that it is working.

The mechanics is now the noisiest components. But I have a MK2/S upgrade coming.

Just replaces the extruder fan with a Noctua fan with the special adapter.  I saw messages that the 10 mm fan may not cool the extruder enough so I have a 20 mm fan. The adapter may take away the static pressure compared to the original Prusa fan.

Ready for the smoke test....

I did not receive my Noctua fan yet but I added the grid that protects the part cooling fan from things flying in. What makes this interesting is that I can put tape on that protection grid to reduce the part cooling air intake. This solves my Thermal runnaway issue and yet still be able to have the part cooling fan operational. I can add or remove the tape to change air intake depending on the hight of the layers.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2076234

Printing thin big walls using PETG so I need to some kind of cooling to bridge gaps.

Just test printed one of the MK2/S parts with the ABS (ICE) I have. So far I did not see cracks at the higher layers, I am wondering if the copper alloy plated hot-end has created a more consistent temperature.

Slight warping at the bed, but no where near as bad as I originally had before.

The MK2/S upgrade will come with Prusa EasyABS. I will recreate these parts to see if that ABS is better.

So the plan is this MK2  to MK2/S (December), then in January MK2/S to MK2.5.

And once I have more money, the MK2.5 to full blown MK3.

Start printing the MK2/S upgrade plastic parts. The 55 euro upgrade expects you to print your own parts.

Just ordered the MK2 to MK2/S upgrade and the MK2/S to MK2.5. I was thinking to go to a MK3 because it should operate more silently, but with the Noctua fan upgrade I am going to install it may be silent enough.

The MK2.5 shipping starts in January 2018 but the MK2/S could be here just in time for my next holiday.

The Olsson Ruby nozzle seems to work great in both PLA and ABS so far. Not yet used on, PETG, but I am ready for carbon fiber filament now.

Printing the Noctua fan holder for my Prusa MK2. I on purpose did choose ABS, since I have plenty of it but this time I go for 100% infill and the part vcoller turned off. This print seems to be a success.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2076234

I am wondering if I also can print out the object fan cooler front protector but but with an changeable part that can reduce the amount of air intake. I did try with a tape before and it worked but in a lot of cases thee tape got caught inside the cooler.

The Prusa MK2 part cooler has no speed regulation.

The next upgrade will be a Nactua fan. The fan that comes with E3D V6 is very noisy. 70 Db, the Noctua is 51 DB but I need to print an adapter for it.

This is new BED THERMAL RUNAWAY!

It is official, that part cooler! That fan is plain evil!

New E3D v6 nozzel (Gold version) is in! And assembled!   Now calibrating the 3D printer.

Copper alloy heater block this time with socks. One of the reason why I got a thermal runaway was because the heat-block dropped dramatically in temperature mostly 3 hours into the print.

The original copper nozzel has now also been upgraded. Replacing the nozzel is not that easy on teh Prusa. That is why I damaged my heater cartridge wiring because I held it.

Hey Olaf,

You have to try filament from Colorfabb, nGen doesn't wrap and works flawless!
It's stronger than ABS. You can get it from OMD3D in belgium, that's where a bought my new 3D printer. Very good service from Peter, it's the owner.

I damaged the 3D printer. I ordered a new printer head and have now a better nozzel. It may explain the warping issues with ABS.

I will keep your advice in mind. So far all your advice have been good :-)

Their web site is bad on Firefox. You click something and nothing happens. I discovered that you must reload the page every time if you want to see what you pressed.

I am ordering the NGEN (and Carbon filament)

They haven't the best site and they know, there's a company working on a new site, that's what Peter the owner told me :-)

I have mixed feelings about OMD3D. My order is not arriving (ordered on 02/11) , and yesterday I sent a mail to their sales and no response. I typed in the code on their site and get a "no results found".

Is it shipped? Is it in hold? Is it out of stock? A big black void. The only thing that I did get from them is a "payment accepted" email.

I called Peter yesterday and told him that you ordered some stuff, he said it is in progress, just the carbon was out of stock, Today and tommorow they on the xpo in kortrijk, that will be the cause off the delay I think. :(

It would have been nice if they just sent a mail that there is a small delay.  I prefer local products even if they are more expensive, but now it is a black void.

I spoke Peter yesterday, he said that he emailed you but got all mail back with unkown address?  Today he was going to try to contact you again.  Can you give me your email so I can sent it to him. You can sent it to dannyvdh@pandora.be.

Thanks

I just received my filament.

Broke the heater cartridge wires when I wanted to change my printhead. People disassemble the front fan if you do that on the Original Prussa I3 MK2. Don't make the same mistake. This was my first change.

Time to upgrade the extruder, I had a lot of issues with this one.

Original Prussa I3 MK3 is in pre-order.

http://www.prusaprinters.org/original-prusa-i3-mk3-bloody-smart/

Seems interesting twice as fast and more silent that the Prussa I3 MK2.  I am not going to upgrade in the next months but maybe in the future.

FAIL! Three  hours into the printing and I end up with a Therminal Runaway. The printer stops and the model is lost. However no warping visible and I have a draft model to check.

The Thermal Runaway is caused by the object cooling ventilator blowing on the extruder head losing heat. If it gets too low or too high for a certain time the printer aborts.

So next time no object cooling fan.

Test printing with PETG. I took the worst possible shape hat I guarantee will fail with ABS. 2 hours to go to see if PETG will be better.