Need to repair PCB with PRINTED ON RESISTORS?!?!!
Steven Clark wrote 02/10/2015 at 03:06 • 0 pointshttps://s3.amazonaws.com/stevenclarkshared/Adaptor002.jpg At least that's what I think these are. Any thoughts? This is a "Manual Adaptor 2" for the obscure Olympus OM-101 film SLR. Replacement isn't really possible. Can I just solder across the crack? I've got a silver conductive-ink pen if it helps.
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For the time being I bought a replacement off ebay. Being sold separately at least I know I'm not removing a functional camera from the pool by parting it out. Given that there's only 3 wires running to each board I'm thinking a log-scaled pot of the right range might be a functional replacement. It would need an indicator knob though, and probably a printed scale because the camera doesn't display settings in any fashion in the viewfinder.
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my guess is these are precisly cut resistors on an ceramic board. you might be able to match the resistance with high precision resitors and replace the cut ones with them after gluing the board. Unlikly to work though, looks like they need equal resistance for every pad on this board. You might be able to use a resistor network ... (one of those laser trimmed matched thingies)
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Seems like $20 + shipping can get you a full replacement unit, or possibly a replacement component inside if you want to go that way:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olympus-Manual-Adapter-2-for-OM88-OM101-SLR-Cameras-/371255474561
I would probably buy this just to have spares on hand for the rare item... while I tried to repair the original...
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That's going to be a hard one - The board looks like it's ceramic. You could try gluing and repairing with solder, but I don't think it will hold up to everyday use adjusting shutter speed on a manual camera. You might be able to replace it with a regular potentiometer, but your would have to measure the resistance on each detent and place corresponding marks on the replacement part.
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unscrew it, then glue it, than try to solder the pads together that are not those funky green spots. Or maybe first check if the green stuff is conductive with a multimeter and then try to fix it with the ink?
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