For when just sending signals is better.
Cut off a few inches of the soft copper pipe. I have also used type L rigid copper pipe, but it really wasn't worth the trouble to use the harder copper. For this one, I use 3/8in ID soft copper, and it cut relatively easily with metal shears.
Cut down the length of the pipe. Flatten it out.
Cut it into a strip, as long as your stepper is tall plus a little more. Bend to this shape. Just a pliers and your fingers are good enough to bend it.
The middle bend keeps the copper off the board and lets you run wires under it.
Keep the crowned section about the size of the solder pad area on the back of the driver.
Avoid the current ref test point, circled above, when you are soldering later or you'll probably be buying another driver carrier.
Tin the copper and driver.
After you got them well covered, remove as much solder as you can from your tinning... Heating them up and dropping them works well.
Don't overheat the driver too much or you could loose components on the other side..
Now would be a good time to put it on you stepper, mark where the holes need to be, and drill them. Be careful drilling this stuff... It cuts like butter, but if it grabs it will wind itself right around your drill bit and turn into a nice spinning blade. Wear gloves.
Stack them up carefully, heat with your soldering iron until they bond.
Put a screwdriver next to your iron to keep them together, and remove your iron.