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Keyboard model recovered, more test prints

A project log for NanoEgg Music Synthesizer

A powerful little music synthesizer with a classic look!

t-b-trzepaczT. B. Trzepacz 08/20/2016 at 23:150 Comments

So, with a lot of help from the kind folks at Autodesk, the keyboard model was finally recovered in a way that allows it to be edited again. Yay!

More test prints were made.

We tried a set of keys on Bruce's Make-It Pro. He is a whiz at 3d printing and has his machines impeccably tuned, so those prints came out a bit better than the others. This is hot off the press, so it still has a lot of sprue, but compared to the ones from the Rostock Max V2, it is very clean. This one looks like it is made of spiders!
After many experiments with using cookies and various jigs to print the black keys in two parts, I decided to print the keys right side up with support material. Here it is used from the bottom to show the support structure that Bruce was able to set up. I think he was using Cura for that, although we did play with Simplify 3d a bit for that.

Here is an earlier print on the Rostock Max V2, using Matter Control to generate the G-Code. The support material is a lot more solid....
When the 3d printed objects come off the press, they are very messy, and I have to work at them with a knife to remove all the excess plastic (aka sprue) to make a smooth-ish object.

Back to the print from Bruce's machine, I accidentally broke a key off in the process of trying to remove the support material, so I had to glue it back together. It turns out that superglue is actually the best thing for PLA plastic!

The keyboard was designed with small screw holes inside so that the white key and black key parts could just be screwed together. No more messing around with 3d printed cookies...

The keys from Bruce's printer were a tiny bit shorter than the other printer for no apparent reason.

I also did some experiments to see if the finish could be improved. With ABS plastic, one can smooth the finish by placing the model in a acetone vapor bath. Acetone is in fingernail polish remover, so is reasonably safe to work with. With PLA, the same thing can be accomplished with Tetrahydrofuran, but since I didn't have any of that, I had a different idea. Since the models are formed by heating plastic to a melting point of about 210 degrees F, I thought that by treating the model with heat, I could melt just the outside a little bit and make it smooth.

While heating can make it a little bit smooth, it also causes the model to deform quite a bit!

I had a full keyboard done in the wrong size, so I tried that with the heat treatment. As you can see, the keys bent quite a bit, long before the surface finish had any noticeable change.So, maybe not heat treatment...


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