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Auto Leveling the Manual Way

A project log for Clunke Button

Assistive input device for interacting with adapted toys and tools.

christopherChristopher 09/29/2017 at 02:500 Comments

This is the recently-concluded story of my printrbot's trip to manual bed leveling land and back again.

Above is a picture of the custom printer hot-plate I made while pursuing serialized printing. Before this my print bed had been aluminum, and worked with my printrbot's stock inductive leveling probe. Now the z-probe couldn't "see" any metal through that plate of borosilicate glass. What was I to do?

Well, first I put some copper tape on the glass (shown above) where common points for using the inductive probe were. That didn't give very good results though, so I decided to try and find a way to increase the operating distance of my sensor.. And how do you do that? By increasing the voltage to the sensor! It safely accepts 6-36V input, and I just assumed that it stepped down the signal output line to some 3-5V logic.

I almost didn't add the circle, just because I hate seeing obvious junk circled like that in clickbait images online.

I assumed wrong. Highlighted in the image above is the fried mosfet which was used to step the z-probe signal line down to 5V logic for the microcontroller. When I ramped up the sensor's power voltage, the signal line followed, and blew out that component.

But I was in luck! I had just taken an EE course on transistors. With my newfound ability to sketch out an NPN circuit, I wired in a 5V tolerant replacement.

Accompanied by cheers of "maybe college was worth it!"

And I wound up just buying a beefier sensor to detect metal through the glass print bed:

The new sensor is that blue thing on the printer. No, the other blue one.. No, not that either.

This would have been a success, except the replacement sensor wasn't all that precise and I eventually gave up on it. I then removed the sensor entirely and put the print bed up on springs, leaving me to manually level the bed. This worked great, because I could really finely control the adjustment and get the first layer height really tuned in.

It's hard to see here, but the print bed is actually up on springs.

Fast forward to this summer. I realize that I've started having to re-level the bed between every print. The z-axis loses some steps somewhere after every print, and always returns to ~0.5mm instead of 0.0mm. It's starting to get old, so I decide the time is neigh for reinstalling a z-probe and returning the printer to auto leveling.

The fried transistor. It actually shattered. Dang!

Guess what I did? Yup, I forgot about the delicate replacement transistor and I threw on the old high-voltage sensor which promptly fried the transistor. Crap, now what?

After more time than I care to admit, it dawned on me that as I went back to using a 5V sensor, scrounging up a replacement transistor shouldn't be necessary. The ATmega runs at 5V. The sensor runs at 5V now. They should be able to interface directly.

Something something irony about learning new things in college.

So that's what I did: just bridged the sensor line over to the microcontroller and pray the board schematic I found online was accurate.

So many of these little calibration towers laying around.

It worked! The printer is back to printing, and I didn't have to go order a transistor online!

That's all, folks!

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