Take a 20 gallon storage tote. Using hot glue, fit mylar coated bubble wrap around the interior of the enclosure, and the interior of the cover.
Cut insulation carefully to allow container to close easily.
(These are the areas I wing it.)
Get a board slightly larger than the footprint of your fluorescent lamp.
Layout your junction boxes approximately how you'd like them to sit.
When the junction box is roughly where you want it, collect a relay, and place it in the bottom of the junction box.
Using self-drilling dry-wall screws, drill through the hole in the heat sink of the relay, through the junction box, and into the wood. Add another screw to prevent the junction box from easily rotating.
Electricity and loose metal fragments are not friends, clean these out of your enclosure as necessary.
If you can't safely wire 120VAC, please stop here. I bear no responsibility for any bodily injury, death, or loss of property as a result of mimicking this project.
Wired 120VAC through the Solid State Relays, outlets, and switches shown in the schematic.
Within the junction boxes, low voltage signal wire should be routed out efficiently, staying well away from the 120VAC. I used raised junction box covers to provide as much clearance between the relay, outlet and switch.
Junction box knock-outs provide really sharp edges, and wire insulation is no match. ALWAYS use the proper strain relief for wires in high voltage applications.
Wire in parallel by twisting the wires together with pliers, then capping with wire nuts. Make sure the wire nuts are the proper size, and retain the wires. Screw terminal connections should all be firm.
Loose electrical connections cause fires and death. Check your work.
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