Quantity   Component name
1 × |.........................................[THE HEARTH]...................................| The following components are required to build the Hearth, which is the reactor and distillation tower, and the base for the Turbine. See Instructions Section for Build Notes
1 × Lava-style Patio Heater Est cost new: $220. The metabolizer is a distillation tower, and you need some kind of support to hold the tower vertical. Patio heaters are readily available used or free, and aren't prohibitively expensive, even new. They provide a sturdy, good-looking structure to hold the rest of the distillation tower in place. I found mine for $10 at a goodwill outlet bc the glass tube was missing. Check craigslist! For reference: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KH4LAE
2 × 1/2" Brass Nipple https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO93SU
1 × 1.5" Tri-Clamp -2" Concentric Reducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711LM64H
2 × NPT Brass 1/2" Tee https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOCEYK
1 × 1/2" NPT End Cap
1 × 25' Roll of 1/2" Home Flex CSST tubing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISK046Y
2 × 1/2” homeflex fitting to 1/2" male NPT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVLBPY
1 × 1/2" Denord SS Ball Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWS9R83
1 × 12" almost-1" ID Copper tube (sleeves into turbine pole)
1 × 1" OD x 6' tube. (copper tube should sleeve inside this tube) I got mine at rebuilding center, I think it was a rack of some kin
1 × Post Lamp I got mine at RBC, but it's not necessary. It does let you copy my build exactly, which takes out some guesswork. Your call. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MRDJO8
1 × "1/6th Barrel" Sanke Style Beer Keg At least 1, ideally 2 or more so they can be swapped and used as "fuel cartridges". These are the tall skinny kind, they hold about 5 gallons. There are 7 gallon versions too that are wider and should still fit in the Metabolizer, but I've not tried that yet. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009XPF3AK
1 × Torsion Shaft Coupling Found 2 sets at RBC- were helpful for clamping bits together. A cheaper way is definitely possible if you want a design challenge, but these are what I used and they worked well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LDEW1GC
8 × Coleman Gas Mantles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B110UKM
2 × 18” 1/2” to 1/2” braided stainless appliance hose (2 pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CGPNV5M
1 × 18” 1/2” to 3/4” garden hose braided steel appliance hose https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-10-0901-Bathtub-Supply-2-Inch
1 × Submersible pond fountain pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G1Z8G14
1 × One-piece wide mouth Mason jar lids (5 pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BD4Y4V2
4 × 1" Pulleys https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY5QZMD
8 × Feet of 1/16" braided steel cable or similar
1 × Stainless steel locking clips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0796NN5YY
1 × These things, to clamp the wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N40M501
1 × 1.5" Tri-Clamp Silicone Gasket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2S413C
1 × BBQ PID blower I've been using an air matress blower to stoke the charcoal, which works but is inelegant. This is a product made for temperature controlling charcoal smokers by connecting a blower to thermostat circuit. If you set the temp prode somewhere up the tower (the upper range is 300-400F, I think) you can trick it into get the the coals much hotter than that. Could be an easy fix. Actual IoT computer control would be better. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7F1BZQ
1 × |........................................[THE TURBINE]..................................| The components listed below are for building the turbine. See instructions for build notes.
1 × 4'x8' Sheet of 4mm "Coroplast" corrugated plastic (Polypropylene) Available for around $20 at Home Dept, and sometimes at art supply stores. I get mine for around $12/sheet from a sign company in Portland called Pacific Coast Sign Co. The "undyed" translucent kind looks really nice when lit by warm white LEDs. Just sayin'
1 × Coro-Claw One of my favorite tools! Lets you rip or score coroplast sheets along the flutes! So satisfying and totally worth the trouble it saves you! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTNNTTY
1 × NEMA17 Stepper Motor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYFLFHY
1 × Set of "Fairy light" style copper wire LEDs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TBPJ5V
1 × Laser cut coroplast top Cut files in Files Section. I cut mine on a glow forge, you could do it with a razor blade too. I broke these files into two pieces to fit in the glow forge. If you are able to cut bigger than 10x20", that won't be necessary. You can use recycled political lawn signs for this, but you can also just cut it out of your sheet.
1 × Laser cut coroplast bottom Cut files in Files Section. I cut mine on a glow forge, you could do it with a razor blade too.
1 × One pack of box rivets I just learned about these at maker faire. They're the best with Coroplast. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075X25Y7Q
1 × 6" x 1.5" Tri-Clamp ferrule https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076F4R3ZP
5 × 2" Tri-clamp Clamps If I could do this again, I would go 1.5" on everything. and get shorter condenser columns. See Instructions Section for build notes. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DDFSWW4
1 × |........................................[THE SHREDDER]..................................| Full plans available on PreciousPlastic.com, and as a ZIP file in the files section. Build notes in the Instructions section. Check out the Precious Plastic forums before you build!
1 × "Precious Plastic" Open-Source Plastic Shredder Est Cost to Build: >$1000. Full plans available at PreciousPlastic.com, or in the Files section. Estimated BOM included in Files as well.
1 × |........................................[THE PRINTER]...................................| The components listed below are for building the printer. See instructions for build notes.
1 × MPCNC Gantry Est Cost to Build: >$500. Full plans available at v1engineering.com, and a copy is available as a ZIP file in the Files section. Check site for updates. Estimated BOM included in Files as well.
1 × 3" ABS Y-fitting I use the kind that go 3" to 2.5" at the Y. There are a few slightly different variations commonly available, all should work with minor tweaks. Also there's no way this is the best extruder design out there, I know other folks are working on this, but this is what I knew how to make.
2 × Band Heater Elements https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H01QZU0
1 × 4:1 Reduction NEMA23 Stepper Motor For controlling the auger feed speed. I got mine on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WAUZ1WU
1 × 1/2" Black Steel Pipe Flange Common at hardware stores. The bolt-pattern of the one I got was close enough to the bolt pattern of the Nema that could bolt them together with threaded rod. The flange connects to the wood spacers and holds the brass tube in place.
1 × 5" x 1/2" NPT copper or brass nipple
1 × 2" Tri-Clamp Distillation Cup If I could do this again, I would go 1.5" on everything. and get shorter condenser columns. See Instructions Section for build notes. I got mine from AliExpress, took 10 days. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-OD64mm-Rectification-module-Reflux-column-Distillation-Sanitary-Steel-304/32893243310.html
1 × "Dust Deputy" or similar cyclonic filter for flake delivery via vacuum This goes about the print head and feeds flakes in by pulling a vacuum and sucking plastic flakes up and then letting them fall into the hopper. Still experimental.
1 × Set of laser-cut wooden spacers Cut files in the Files section. These are ugly but they work and are cheap, and you can make them with a drill and a 3" hole saw if you don't have cutting robots (yet) The wood acts as a pretty effective heat break, it's not hot enough to burn, and it doesn't get soft as it heats like plastic would.
1 × Shaft Coupler to connect the stepper to the Auger I think I used this one, check your ends with a caliper to be sure. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078VSMW44
1 × 1/2" Wood Auger I got mine in 3 pack set from Harbor Freight for about $20
1 × 48" of 5/16"-18 threaded rod
8 × 5/16" -18 Nylock Nuts
1 × 100K Thermistors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4KY6TR
1 × Solid State Relays (3VDC-12VDC switchable) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F74C241
1 × Pack of 4-in locking connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K3M1TB
1 × |...................................[THE GASOMETER]................................|
1 × 1.5" Tri-Clamp cap with 1/2" Male NPT thread https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W77Y4W
1 × Polyethylene 1.5" Bulkhead Fitting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079JU6J0
1 × 30 Gallon Screw-top Polypropylene Barrel/ Bulk Container These can be ordered, but were selected because they are fairly common in the waste stream. I got mine from place in Gresham OR that re-sells containers for about $30: https://www.facebook.com/Green-Concepts-Containers-163062107392661/
1 × 15 Gallon Closed Top Polyethylene Barrel These can be ordered, but were selected because they are fairly common in the waste stream. I got mine from place in Gresham OR that re-sells containers for about $15: https://www.facebook.com/Green-Concepts-Containers-163062107392661/
1 × Polyethylene 2" Bulkhead Fitting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079JU91A
2 × 1/2" NPT ID Polyethylene Bulkhead Fitting These are for the gas in and gas out ports.
1 × 4+FT of 2" OD plastic pipe PVC, ABS, or PE all work, I prefer to work with PE. Easily scavenged
1 × 4+FT of 1.5" OD plastic pipe PVC, ABS, or PE all work, I prefer to work with PE. Easily scavenged
2 × 1/2" NPT to 3/4" Brass Faucets Got mine at local ACE Hardware. Around $8 each. I picked them because they looked interesting, and because the twisting mechanism on them was smooth and didn't require much torque, so it could potentially be modified to be controlled by a servo or stepper motor in the future.
2 × Sets (at least!) of 3/4" Garden Hose Quick Connectors Is what I use. There's definitely better quick-connect fittings out there, but these work actually pretty well, don't leak an appreciable amount, and are widely available.
1 × 50' 1/2" Rubber Air Hose Is what I'm using to carry the low-pressure gas to the generator. I got mine at Harbor Freight.
1 × 2" Tri-Clamp x 18" Dephlegmator (yes that's really what they're called) If I could do this again, I would go 1.5" on everything. and get shorter condenser columns. See Instructions Section for build notes. I got mine on Aliexpress, took 12 days. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-inch-stainless-steel-304-clamped-condenser-moonshine-distiller-accessories-bsp-males/32805805884.html
1 × |....................................[THE GENERATOR]................................|
1 × Harbor Freight "Predator" 2000W Inverter Generator or Similar I have successfully gotten clean 120V/60hz power out of (but am still testing) a Harbor Freight 2000W "Predator" generator on gas produced from a mixture of shredded junk mail, cardboard packaging, and woodchips. This indicates to me that many other small (maybe even not-so-small) inverter generators should work too, but I've only tested this one. I picked this one because Harbor Freight tools are widely available across America, and they have a near-unconditional return policy. If you don't void the warranty, which this definitely does, but I'm just gonna stop talking. An even better solution would be something like this Champion Inverter generator, because it's not much more expensive, but it's more powerful, parallel capable, dual fuel and already set up to accept gaseous fuel, and most importantly, is electric-start, which means it can be easily wired to be turned on and off by a larger IoT control system. I couldn't afford this one yet, but it'll be my next upgrade after I do more tests on the "Predator": https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FAWMMEY
1 × |.......................................[THE NETWORK]..................................|
1 × Raspberry Pi 3, Tablet, or Laptop To control the whole system, currently using Blynk app
1 × NodeMCU wifi board
5 × 2" Tri-Clamp Silicone Gaskets If I could do this again, I would go 1.5" on everything. and get shorter condenser columns. See Instructions Section for build notes. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NC2US4U
1 × 2" Tri-Clamp cap with 1/2” female NPT threads https://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-X-1-2-Male-NPT.html