Adjusted a couple little parameters of the CAD files based on inaccuracies of the model that printed. Just widening the space between the threaded posts and adjusting the cutout for the heat pipes.

To do list:

• Place general markers in the CAD files for the fin stack and tie down points and some other clearance objects.
• Develop a 5 pipe setup to provide a thermal capacity of over 200 W via the heat pipes and a copper interconnect.
• Develop a larger cold plate with integrated barbs for possible water cooling.

While spending more time reading up and playing with variables, it appears that the fin stack may also be insufficient. If that proves to be the case, then I will escalated things. In order to prove it, using two, short heat pipes to conduct up to 200 W of heat off the cold plate into a remote copper slug will be used. This will be right next to the speaker. 3 heat pipes will connect the slug to the fin stack. Despite the thermal resistance of the additional slug, it'll be modeled for all 5 pipes and in a way such that they can touch and be soldered to each other. If that doesn't provide my 50 °C temperature delta, then I have a last resort.

Not practical on the machining side, but great for DIY, I will then enlarge and create a cavity in the cold plate. Enough room for a 1.5-2 mm thick copper foam sheet. After bolting and sandwiching, a cold plate with a larger thermally conductive surface area will have been made. Trim a few fins on the fin stack and you can create a custom, rather mini, water cooling loop.