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900 MHz radio

Hope RF module + Atmega 328

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A 900 MHz platform to use for all the projects that need fast & far comms

The current design uses a AAA battery to power a 900 MHz RFM69 radio, 12 white LEDs, and a capacitive touch sensor. 

Look at the tab wedding badge 3 if you want to see current BOM.

brd - 141.11 kB - 01/31/2021 at 23:59

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Wedding 5.sch

Do not use this for Atmega328P, uses Port "E" (only available on Atmega328PB)

sch - 268.31 kB - 01/31/2021 at 23:59

See BOM
Download

bare bones test program from Sparkfun.zip

rx/tx test for atmega328PB from sparkfun

Zip Archive - 5.33 kB - 01/31/2021 at 19:21

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RadioHead69_RXTX_0425.zip

rx/tx test for atmegaPB with rfm69

Zip Archive - 7.70 kB - 01/30/2021 at 17:51

Download

ino - 4.03 kB - 01/30/2021 at 17:09

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  • Test Setup

    Sophi Kravitz01/31/2021 at 19:18 0 comments

    To program bootloader:

    AVR ISP MKii + TC2030-MCP-NL Tag-connect cable hardwired together.

    To read data

    FTDI basic 3.3 V, one for each board (TX/ RX)

    The setup

    Using a USB 3.0 hub and one Macbook Pro for testing. Opening a second instance of the Arduino IDE can watch messages go back and forth.

  • Programming a bare bones Atmega328 over UART

    Sophi Kravitz01/31/2021 at 18:09 0 comments

    I found this whole process to be hard to figure out and didn't find a tutorial online, so here's some notes.

    In order to use the Arduino IDE, you need a bootloader on your Arduino compatible chip.

    1. Use ICSP pins to get the bootloader onto the chip. I use an AVR mkii programmer for this step.

    2. After the bootloader is on the chip, you can program the board using the serial port. There is a specific circuit that I found needed to be designed in. I used the FTDI basic as the programmer.

    3. NOTES: I had to upload the bootloader twice and cycle power a couple of times to get this to work

  • Bringing up new boards

    Sophi Kravitz12/24/2020 at 00:26 2 comments

    1/30/2021 - bringing up boards notes

    • Sch/brd name Wedding 5
    • Using Atmega328PB
    • AAA battery footprint (not AA as mentioned before) still not quite right
    • Programming over ISP works, power supply works
    • Programming over FTDI/ UART works, I found this to be finicky, see next log for details
    • Blinktest.ino works with all LEDs
    • LEDs have 124 ohm resistors, could probably go to 150 ohm
    • CS has a 10k pullup
    • Trick: open -n -a EAGLE in terminal to see more than one instance
    • TODO: 
      • test internal oscillator (8 MHz)
      • test cap touch sensor

    Testing radios today:

    Name/ Port/ Atmega pin/ Arduino IDE pin

    • CS / PB2/ 14/ 10
    • SDO (MOSI0)/ PB3 / 15/ 11
    • SDIO (MISO0)/ PB4 / 16/ 12
    • SCK0/ PB5/ 17 / 13
    • RADIO RESET/ E1/ 6/ 24
    • INT/ PD2/ 32/ 2 

    BATTERY LIFE

    • ADC, 10 BITS, GND REF, 0 - VCC RANGE
    • ADC HAS SEPARATE POWER SUPPLY AVCC. 
      • AVCC must not differ more than ±0.3V from VCC. 
      • Needs capacitor added to pad (oops)
    • BATTERY READ/ ADC6/E2/ 19/ A6
    • V(out) = V(in)*(R2/(R1+R2)) where max Vin is 1.5 V (AAA battery), Vout is 1 V
    • pin voltage mV = (ADC value *system voltage mV) / max ADC value //  1 V = (ADC value * 3.3V)/ 1024 // Max ADC = 310

    PINOUTS

    //    digitalWrite(0)         //--> D0
    //    digitalWrite(1)         //--> D1
    //    digitalWrite(2)         //--> D2
    //    digitalWrite(3,LOW);    //--> D3
    //    digitalWrite(4,LOW);    //--> D4
    //    digitalWrite(5,LOW);    //--> D5
    //    digitalWrite(6,LOW);    //--> D6
    //    digitalWrite(7,LOW);    //--> D7
    //    digitalWrite(8,HIGH);   //--> B0 
    //    digitalWrite(9,HIGH);   //--> B1
    //    digitalWrite(10,HIGH);  //--> B2 SSO
    //    digitalWrite(11,HIGH);  //--> B3 MOSI
    //    digitalWrite(12,HIGH);  //--> B4 MISO
    //    digitalWrite(13,HIGH);  //--> B5 SCK
    //    digitalWrite(14,LOW);   //--> C0
    //    digitalWrite(15,LOW);   //--> C1
    //    digitalWrite(16,LOW);   //--> C2 
    //    digitalWrite(17,LOW);   //--> C3
    //    digitalWrite(18,LOW);   //--> XX
    //    digitalWrite(19,LOW);   //--> XX
    //    digitalWrite(20,LOW);   //--> XX
    //    digitalWrite(21,LOW);   //--> XX
    //    digitalWrite(22,LOW);   //--> XX
    //    digitalWrite(23,LOW);   //--> E0
    //    digitalWrite(24,LOW);   //--> E1
    //    pinMode(A2, INPUT_PULLUP); //-->25 (ALSO C2)

    ****************************

    I received new PCBs early December, getting around to populating and bringing them up now. Here are the notes:

    1. SDO/ SDI routed incorrectly everywhere, reversed on the radio and reversed on the programming connector.

    2. LEDs are BRIGHT with a 100 ohm resistor. Maybe we'll go with less bright? TBD.

    R13 & 14 are 100 ohm, the rest are 124 ohm

    3.  AA battery holder is bigger than the footprint was designed for. The oscillator and the on/off switch interfere. Not a show stopper here, but should be fixed for the next rev.

    4. For battery life, we're using a AA 1.5V battery. There's a voltage divider measuring the battery which gives an input to pin 19: ADC6/ E2. 

    V(out) = V(in)*(R2/(R1+R2))

  • Log to map where we're at

    Sophi Kravitz11/15/2020 at 03:14 0 comments

    Combined both power and MCU boards into one.

    Thinking about using a different chip altogether: 

    • We're using 2 chips for not a lot of stuff. I really liked working with the  Microchip suite. For example, this chip has 16+ GPIO and RF capability in 900 MHz range and is only $4.50.

    Also we might be able to remove:

    • Crystal
    • Resistor on CS pin

  • Atmega328P and Atmega328PB compatible pinouts

    mpinner04/25/2020 at 22:51 0 comments

    I found the same code can work with both P and PB boards. if we line up our pinout properly we might be able to use existing atmega328p boards as a quick way test many (6x) talking together.

    what do you all think worth switching things up a bit?

    //    digitalWrite(0)         //--> D0  -- TX Serial OUT
    //    digitalWrite(1)         //--> D1  -- RX Serial IN
    //    digitalWrite(2)         //--> D2  -- RADIO_IRQ RFM_INT
    //    digitalWrite(3,LOW);    //--> D3  --LED_0
    //    digitalWrite(4,LOW);    //--> D4  --LED_1
    //    digitalWrite(5,LOW);    //--> D5  --LED_2
    //    digitalWrite(6,LOW);    //--> D6  --LED_3
    //    digitalWrite(7,LOW);    //--> D7  --LED_4
    //    digitalWrite(8,HIGH);   //--> B0  --LED_5
    //    digitalWrite(9,HIGH);   //--> B1
    //    digitalWrite(10,HIGH);  //--> B2  --SSO  RFM_CS
    //    digitalWrite(11,HIGH);  //--> B3  --MOSI RADIO AND PROGRAMMING
    //    digitalWrite(12,HIGH);  //--> B4  --MISO RADIO AND PROGRAMMING
    //    digitalWrite(13,HIGH);  //--> B5  --SCK  RADIO AND PROGRAMMING
    //    digitalWrite(14,LOW);   //--> C0  --LED_6
    //    digitalWrite(15,LOW);   //--> C1  --LED_7
    //    digitalWrite(16,LOW);   //--> C2  --LED_8
    //    digitalWrite(17,LOW);   //--> C3  --LED_9
    //    digitalWrite(18,LOW);   //--> XX  --LED_10
    //    digitalWrite(19,LOW);   //--> XX  --LED_11
    //    digitalWrite(20,LOW);   //--> XX  --BATTERY_SENSE
    //    digitalWrite(21,LOW);   //--> XX
    //    digitalWrite(22,LOW);   //--> XX
    //    digitalWrite(23,LOW);   //--> E0
    //    digitalWrite(24,LOW);   //--> E1
    //    pinMode(A2, INPUT_PULLUP); //-->25 (ALSO C2)

  • Starting to think about states and animations

    adellelin04/20/2020 at 02:56 0 comments

    This weekend we started thinking about the possible states of the badges and getting one of them working. We started with 4 of the LEDs on the board that have pwm enabled, writing a slow chase where each of the LEDs fade on and off.

    We're using the elapsedMillis library that allows us to access clock time whilst other processes are going on in the loop. The main concept is when elapsed time is more than the set duration, we reset it. 

    Next thing was to set the state of each LED. All LEDs start in off state with only the first one on. In each loop, turn the next LED on, and turn the current one off. 

    Code is in - RadioHead69_RawDemo_RX_0419b.ino

  • Measuring power draw in sleep modes

    mpinner04/20/2020 at 00:46 0 comments

    Now that we have a setup for programming and testing the TX and RX boards, we're starting to explore a bit of programming. One of the possibilities is use sleep modes to conserve battery power. Lowpower labs has a library that puts the MCU to sleep and wakes it up and various intervals.


    First download the library here, and put it into the Arduino library folder. To get it working for the PB variant, go to the LowPower.h file and add the PB variant to this line. Chage

    #if defined (__AVR_ATmega328P__) || defined (__AVR_ATmega168__)

     to 

    #if defined (__AVR_ATmega328P__) || defined (__AVR_ATmega168__) || defined (__AVR_ATmega328PB__) 

    Our test involved sleeping the MCU for 8s at a time, it would wake up, receive radio messages and go back to sleep. Adding this line to the code:

    LowPower.powerDown(SLEEP_8S, ADC_ON, BOD_OFF);

    To calculate the power draw, we disconnected the power board from the controller board, soldered cables to power and ground pins and connected to multimeter in A mode. 

    Initially the radios were chirping and LEDs were flashing to indicate messages received and acknowledgement. The power readings were all over the place. The sleep seemed promising as we'd note a shift to about 16ma when the sleep cycle kicked in and it would jump to 37ma when there was clearly no sleep happening. The LEDs drawing up to 20ma was a little concerning as we'd see the power bounce all over, so we decided to turn all LEDs off to get a better read on the situation.

    At this point we still don't have a good sense of what the radios are doing when we're not explicitly sending or receiving anything. We hope not much. The power draw calculations without LEDs and unused radios are such:

    • During sleep, power draw was about 2mA
    • Without using the low power mode - 26mA

  • Burning the bootloader (when things go wrong)

    adellelin04/06/2020 at 16:16 0 comments

    After getting the first board rev from Sophi, I wanted to test out programming it using an FTDI programmer from Sparkfun. Couple of issues - using a new mac with USB-C hubs, the board didn't get recognized by the mac. The other problem was that the boards come wired at 5V, whereas our board was at 3.3V. I had initially mixed up these issues and thus corrupted the bootloader, this manifested in the board not being recognized anymore when trying to program. 

    To burn the bootloader, we used an AVR programmer and soldered some headers to the board according to these pinouts.

    Connect the AVR programmer to your laptop USB port and then select these board options. The go to the bottom and select Burn Bootloader.

    The board will light up. In order to program the bootloader, make sure that the headers are disconnected from the AVR programmer (even if the programmer is not connected to the laptop). Also cut the trace between the 5V and middle pad, and bridge the middle pad to the 3.3V pad with solder on the FTDI board.

    Now I was able to upload the scripts again to the board and happy days!

  • Setup board environment

    adellelin03/29/2020 at 22:00 0 comments

    Requirements:

    Arduino AVR Boards version 1.6.22 and above

    (Tools->Boards->Boards Manager)

    <>Install MiniCore Board<>

    https://github.com/MCUdude/MiniCore#write-to-own-flash

    This installation method requires Arduino IDE version 1.8.6 or greater.

    • Open the Arduino IDE.
    • Open the File > Preferences menu item.
    • Enter the following URL in Additional Boards Manager URLs:
      https://mcudude.github.io/MiniCore/package_MCUdude_MiniCore_index.json
      
    • Open the Tools > Board > Boards Manager... menu item.
    • Search for MiniCore.
    • Click Install.
    • After installation is complete close the Boards Manager window.
    • Selecting the right board:
      • Open the Tools > Board > MiniCore: ATmega328
      • Tools > Variant > 328PB

    <>Install Libraries<>

    From Arduino Library Manager:

    • ElapsedMillis
    • SoftPWM


    RadioHead Library

    - Download this Link and put into /Documents/Arduino/Libraries. This is the reference site.

    Low Power Labs

    - Follow steps here

  • Rev 1 done! Next​

    Sophi Kravitz03/24/2020 at 22:49 0 comments

    One circuit has charlieplexed LEDs

    One circuit has not charlieplexed LEDs

    Using SOT-5 power supply.

    Final rev uses Atmega328P, not "PB"

    Test capacitive touch sensor

    Send extra battery holders

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Discussions

Kosma wrote 05/23/2020 at 08:37 point

why not solar power and AA or lipo? this are naturaly way for this device.

in my opinion good antena is important

  Are you sure? yes | no

mpinner wrote 03/25/2020 at 00:08 point

how are we feeling about charlieplexing these days? 20 leds? or 30? is that too many?

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mpinner wrote 01/30/2020 at 18:46 point

cannot wait!

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Sophi Kravitz wrote 01/31/2020 at 22:52 point

power tests on the weekend :P

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AVR (lordKiCAD) wrote 12/11/2019 at 22:47 point

Join forces ? https://hackaday.io/project/17997-s1g-rf-sub-1ghz-radio-modules-915mhz-and-433mhz I 've been wanting to finish a similar project

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Sophi Kravitz wrote 12/27/2019 at 17:36 point

hi @AVR yessss, checking out your project now. sorry for late response, I didn't see this

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seilerjacinda925 wrote 11/19/2019 at 16:06 point

Hi

Nice to meet you after viewing your profile i am Jacinda, from (jakarta) indonesia,

i have a project discussion with you please email me on: (jacinda.seiler@yahoo.com)

  Are you sure? yes | no

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