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Elderly batteries, Lappies, and other devices

A project log for today's assorted project ramble "grab-bag"

Assorted project-ideas/brainstorms/achievements, etc. Likely to contain thoughts that'd be better-organized into other project-pages

eric-hertzEric Hertz 07/31/2020 at 22:3116 Comments

I've two old laptops I've been trying to use with some old software necessarily connecting to old hardware via old ports... thus we're talking a 486 and a p150.

The 486 is actually a great machine; quality. I used it last year for #OMNI 4 - a Kaypro 2x Logic Analyzer 

BUT, after a year in storage, even though it worked great after the twenty years in storage prior, it started acting *really* weird; claiming it was running off the battery, though it was reporting 0% charged, and though it was plugged-in to AC... and not even attempting to charge the battery... and, if I recall [it's been *many* days fiddling with it, since], after just a few minutes' use, would briefly warn about a low battery and planning to drop into standby, but would actually shut off completely.

The p150, as I recall, was doing similar, which is why I reverted to the 486... since I'd used it more recently.

Long story short: It appears that:

* upon losing BIOS-settings due to a dead [actually, removed, so-as to avoid leakage] CMOS battery, the default option for the power-button is standby, rather'n power-off. Thus, apparently the machine patiently waited to be awoken, for a year, sitting at the "now safe to shut off" screen, until sipping both the main battery and the standby battery dry...

* the system apparently does not recognize that the main battery is connected if it detects 0.14V where /at worst/ the 7.2V battery shouldn't go below something like 6V... maybe it can't even measure that low... [interesting; two diode-drops?] Thus, won't even attempt to charge a battery it doesn't think is there.

* I still can't explain the "Power source: battery" when plugged into AC; but

* I *think* the reason it'd run for only a few minutes at a time is due to the *standby* battery; which is three NiCd[?] heatshrunk coin-cells, deeply hidden inside. AC would charge them while the unit was powered-off, then the machine would run off three friggin' coin-cells for a few minutes before they ran too low.

.....

THUS.

It's not that I /need/ the thing to run off the battery, but that it's near /useless/ if it can only run a few minutes at a time... and... 

In many cases such an issue might wind-up an otherwise fully-functional machine in eWaste, presuming something internal like a faulty charging circuit... 

Well, I looked-er-over inside and out [which was not easy, mind you!], and besides a long-broken screen hinge and a couple stupid plastic tabs I broke off trying to open it, etc. this thing is near-pristine inside, going-on 25years old!

So, then, I broke apart the battery pack and found 6 18650 li-ion cells [li-ion existed 25 years ago?!]... three parallelled, in series with another three parallelled. And, each parallel-combination measuring 0.07V. Yikes.

Now, if you believe the hype... a li-ion lower than something like 2V is "useless" and unusable, some even say "dangerous," and must be immediately disposed and replaced... Something about dendrites shorting plates, thus never being able hold a charge. Something else about big-enough dendrite-shorts causing huge currents and flames?

While those theories may have merit in some extreme cases, I'm sure there are varying-degrees of "dangerous" and "useless." And I beg to differ, regarding their uselessness; I think the scenario I've described above is a *perfect* use-case.

[Similarly applicable, I imagine, and have unwittingly encountered, with many cell-phones, tablets, netbooks, etc.--portable devices of all sorts!--which literally won't turn on without a battery, regardless of a decent charger/power-supply]

...

The question then becomes, how to get my laptop [or other device] running... and /now/?

After a bit of digging, I found that there are many rebels and dare-devils out there [thank goodness] who've had and reported various successes [and failures] trying various methods to revive Li-ions which've been depleted *far* below 2V, some even measuring /negative/.

YMMV, but in a situation like mine, where external power is more than acceptable, but won't work without an at-least /slightly-functional battery [whose form-factor may be hard to find, expensive, or may just take too long to ship], I'd suggest at least /trying/ to get that battery charged to a level the system will accept...

FIRST: Sure, be cautious... li-ions are explosive [so is rubbing alcohol, like *many* other things we'd be stupid to swear off on account of "safety." Use some friggin' common sense and take the level of precaution you're comfortable with, while also considering others]

I started with a 5V usb charger, threw in a series 50-ohm resistor, and plugged that into one of the parallel-cell packs... that's 100mA, maximum. And, sure enough, that battery-voltage rose from 0.07V to 2V in minutes. [though, also depleted, once removed from the "charger," in minutes, back down to below a volt]

I tried a couple other experiments, ultimately finding myself comfortable with around 3A /max/ [for three cells, mind-you, 1A apiece, +/-], still using just a 5V source and a resistor.

Eventually I measured around 3.7V, only slowly self-discharging [or maybe just settling?] on each parallel-pack, and tried it in the laptop... and lo and behold, lappy's charger kicked in!

For a few minutes. Then it went back to not charging.

So, maybe one pack self-discharged a bit while charging the other, or... who knows, but I figured I'd give it another go... a little more "balanced..." [and, I remembered, around this point, that 3.6-3.7V is the /nominal/ voltage, while *not* charging... so, I'da prb had more luck if I let the 5V+resistor method get 'em up to at least 4V /while charging/]

So, in an attempt to balance the two, and whatnot, I used the charging circuit removed from a USB power-pack... and... let it top them off until its lights were solid.

Here, I was unsure of the "safety" and also *plausibility*... from what I gather [they're not marked] my cells are rated 3.6V. My USB power-pack's cells are clearly marked 3.7V. So... I mean... would it sit forever *trying* to reach 4.2V, but limited by the battery-chemistry to 4.1? Or would it overheat the battery, trying to force more charge into it than it could take?

I did a bit more research [while letting it run and measuring reasonable current, and below 4V]

The key takeaway, I gather, is that basically some are labelled 3.6V and some 3.7 depending on /purpose/; charge to 4.2V, get 11% more Amp-hours, at the cost of half as many recharge cycles [lifespan]... good for a quadcopter, but maybe not a laptop.

Lifespan's not my concern, here... overall system functionality is... [Though, I'm impressed with a brand who chose the former in their design! Per the 7.2V marking on the pack. And, I suppose those sorts of design decisions explain why this 25y/o laptop is still with us /at all/]. 

So I let this setup charge to completion [monitoring the current/voltage /and temperature/, regularly]... four and a half hours later it actually showed a full charge. Then a few minutes later started charging again [which it doesn't do with its own cells]. Though, only for about 30 seconds every few minutes.

So, we might very well be talking about internal dendrites shorting plates with some resistance, or some other sort of self discharge. Or maybe the 3.6V vs 3.7V theory is bunk, and these guys never could /hold/ a 3.7V-cell's full charge, and they're just settling to their normal voltage... I dunno...

I do know the lappy booted, said it was on AC, said the pack was at 100%, and ran for *hours* today.

The battery, interestingly, reportedly dropped from 100% to 8% in the blink of an eye, and early-on, but the system seems to have no qualms "charging" that, now, nor running off AC.

....

So, all in all, a decent experiment with results that at the least could be useful for other such things; say you've a phone that just won't power-up nor charge due to a severely drained [or dendrite-discharged] battery, and all you need to do is download your photos or look up a phone number... try a 50ohm resistor, yo! See where it gets yah!

....

Longer-term, this gives me ideas for how to repurpose phones, tablets, etc. or keep these two lappies functional in situations where an external power-source is available, and maybe just disposing of the dying cells altogether. Something about a diode and resistor and a coin cell? super-cap? Some drop-in method may be achievable with no risk of leaks or flames, or even depletion-related non-power-up, over the next 25+ years.

Discussions

rubypanther wrote 08/04/2020 at 17:46 point

I was told to only trickle in a few mA when the cells are that low, I use ~5 mA which might even be a bit high.

They can be sitting there all happy and OK at low voltage, and when you start charging them you create problems. Any excess charging creates damage at low voltage. Patience is required.

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Eric Hertz wrote 08/04/2020 at 20:16 point

good call! I kinda thought 100mA, well, I kinda heard from someone online, to use a "low current, say 100mA." They were discussing 18650 cells, and iirc the handwavy logic was <1/10th of the normal charge-rate which is ~= the amp-hour-rating/2... but, that's all /very/ handwavy, so I basically erred on the side of caution from that number [100mA], since my cells were three in parallel; ideally 33mA, then, to each cell..

But, of course, e.g. if one of the three was shorted internally, and the others weren't, then that /one/ would take the full 100mA...

Which is why I didn't start with 300mA.

But, also, being that I just used a 50ohm resistor in series with a 5V source, that means that it'd be 100mA [worst case] if shorted and less than 100mA as the battery voltage rose... Using a constant current-source seemed a bit risky to me, not knowing much about chemistry. I kinda figure it two with two extremes: the voltage measured on the battery, being 0.07V [which coulda just been my fingers touching the probes] was so close to 0V that A) a cell might be internally shorted [zero resistance between poles], or B) they might be essentially filled with water [infinite resistance between poles], in which case a constant-current source would increase the output voltage to as high as it can, trying to force in the set current... From that perspective a 5V source with a 50-ohm current-limiter, really, might've even been risky, 'cause, if it was an open-circuit [water], i'da been putting 5V at its terminals! I might've been wiser to start with, say, a 3.3V source, or even a AA battery and suitable resistor.

The guy I got the idea from, on youtube, actually does it by /directly/ connecting a good/charged cell of the same size to the "dead" cell! He does that for about 30sec. That could potentially pump AMPS into the dead cell! Could be like shorting the good cell. Flames are definitely possible, there; that's a different realm, I wasn't ready to take that leap ;)

Anyhow, you're prb right to start with even smaller currents... And probably even more important for smaller cells. I think it also wise to monitor the voltage on the cell, and the current going into it, as well as the temperature... Even with 5mA, I dunno if I'd be comfortable running it overnight unattended on a wooden workbench strewn with papers a foot away [until, at least, I saw the voltage increase a bit]. OTOH, if you believe the hype, Li-Ions that low can do weird things on their own, and some folk consider anything below 2V dangerous to even have in a drawer... hah! Everything has risks, I guess.

When you do this, how do you determine when it's OK to use a regular charging method? I mean, you don't wait for a full charge of a 1.5AH cell at 5mA [1500+/hours/] do you?

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rubypanther wrote 08/04/2020 at 20:43 point

I only go to 2V that way, but I don't think it is linear at the bottom.

If I had a safe place to do it, and wanted to make sure I only kept good cells, I'd probably do it with higher current like the other guy. But I'm just trying to get what life I can out of the cell with the least chance of damage. When you do it at high current, if nothing blows up then you "heal" the shorts by burning them out. Have a safety container. I'd rather do high current or low current than medium current, though. I don't have a good reference for any of that, that's just my organic synthesis from reading application notes.

I also only go to 4.1V on old cells.

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Eric Hertz wrote 08/04/2020 at 21:04 point

I've heard of "burning off" some of the internal crystalization/oxidation with high-current/voltage... I remember attempting it with NiCd, NiMh, and lead acid... I think I even hooked a 1.2V AA to a 20V power supply briefly. Not sure how much luck I had; really, I've a long history with flakey rechargeable batteries, unless I buy new, and even then, sometimes...

LiIon, though, seems to me a bit of a different beast. Spewing acid is gnarly, but white-hot flames...? Gotta have the right environment for that kinda experimentation...

4.1V on older batts is a smart idea; charging these with a charger made for newer, I found that /most/ of the time was spent trying to get from 4.1V to 4.2V. Also, I read that thing about 4.1 allowing for more cycles...

2V is about where I switched from 100mA to 1A... I guess "great minds think alike"

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Ken Yap wrote 07/31/2020 at 22:38 point

I think you'll find that cells of that age are NiCd.

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Eric Hertz wrote 07/31/2020 at 23:11 point

it's clearly marked "Lithium Ion".

I was surprised, as well. Having encountered many machines in/of the era.

In fact, in doing some research, it seems the first Li-ions on the market were 'round the same year this was released. It also has TFT during the DSTN-era... imagine it prb cost a pretty penny.

Unless you're referring to the coin-cell stand-by battery...

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Ken Yap wrote 07/31/2020 at 23:13 point

I meant the standby. 6 cells to get 7.2V sounds right. Or was it 3 cells? LiIon is 3.something V. I got confused by your winding narrative which cells you were trying to charge.

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Eric Hertz wrote 07/31/2020 at 23:30 point

"So, then, I broke apart the battery pack and found 6 18650 li-ion cells [li-ion existed 25 years ago?!]... three parallelled, in series with another three parallelled. And, each parallel-combination measuring 0.07V. Yikes."

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Ken Yap wrote 07/31/2020 at 23:32 point

Yeah, I should have realised the NiCd part was irrelevant.

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Eric Hertz wrote 08/01/2020 at 00:55 point

well, maybe it's relevant in that nicd can be depleted to 0 and recharged... if not for that, I might not've even been able to power this on at all. Heh.

Also, standby batts are amazing in general... swap out the big one while it's running? On coin cells?!

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Eric Hertz wrote 07/31/2020 at 22:33 point

interesting aside... I've long wondered how such systems can both "charge" the battery *and* run off it at the same time: e.g. a phone crunching numbers might be using more than 2.5W, while connected to a computer via USB [5V,500mA=2.5W]...

I think, now, I can /vaguely/ picture how that's sometimes implemented; and the system necessary to enable that /particular/ functionality, that way, may very well be responsible for the fact many such devices /can't/ run without a battery, even when the attached "charger" [power supply] unquestionably can handle the device's highest power-demands, even when the device /knows/ it can [e.g. negotiated 2A from a "charger"]. 

I think it's a matter of necessary circuitry, and needing physically different circuits for the two cases [or more]... huh. And, then, needing to account for things like cheap/thin wire-losses, in determining which circuit to switch-in, when.

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Ken Yap wrote 07/31/2020 at 23:24 point

They just charge slower if the phone is being used, to stay under the limit, there are power managements ICs for this sort of thing. Also recent charging specs are not limited to 500mA or even 5V. As for cheapo charger cables, just toss them out or use somewhere requiring little current, they are a waste of money, however little.

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Eric Hertz wrote 07/31/2020 at 23:46 point

*sigh*... this is the real world, wherein sometimes we must make do with what we've got, got access to, or have thrust upon us.

Charger circuitry has to deal with cheap cables. PMICs come in various technologies/qualities. And nothing I've ever owned, short of a $4 SD-card reader with a micro-B-adapter has USB-C.

The whole point of this post is about reviving and repurposing /old tech/.

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Ken Yap wrote 08/01/2020 at 00:01 point

When I was a kid I found an old motorcycle battery. I spend an inordinate amount of time trying to revive it by connecting it to a car battery charger. It never held much charge after all that effort. Since then I've realised if a rechargeable battery is on its last legs, nothing you do will add much life to it, and it's better to just toss it.

Of course if you have more time than resources, then by all means pass the time that way. After all, many of the retro projects here, including my own, could be replaced with modern equivalents working better, and tne projects are just for the heck of it. But I think one has to be realistic with what can do with old tech.

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Eric Hertz wrote 08/01/2020 at 00:47 point

Indeed... There are cases where the "go-to" mentality is "garbage" or even "dangerous" when in fact, if you know what your goals are, then that garbage is /exactly/ what's necessary to get the job done.

Your motorcycle battery experience is a prime example. Yeah, you're probably not going to make it like-new, but I bet you discovered that at least briefly it would take a charge... so, then, now you know that for when your car battery is on its last legs and you took too many short trips...

do you walk 20mi back to the nearest auto-parts store and carry it 20mi back

do you pay a towtruck $300 where a refurb $40 part is all you need

or do you get a jump-start and drive there in first-gear to keep the RPMs up on that alternator?

...

BTW: Properly Refurbished lead-acid car batts work surprisingly well, cost far less, are almost certainly better for the environment than even recycled, and helps put food on a skilled person's table, rather than supporting the shooting of yet another endangered species by a billionaire.

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Ken Yap wrote 08/01/2020 at 01:20 point

I probably used up more electricity trying to revive that motorcycle battery than all the use I got out of it later. So it was fine as a kid's pastime but for serious recycling it's better to do it systematically. I'd probably take it to the recycling centre if I came across it today. It was acting as a door stop IIRC.

It all comes down to the situation. If you can revive it for little effort and it's useful to you after that, by all means pass the time that way.

There is a reason there is an aftermarket for phone and laptop batteries. I've bought those and recycled the worn ones responsibly. No point busting a gut trying to do the impossible. I reckon I've been responsible in continuing to use the electronics when other people would toss it. The laptop in question is actually a netbook from 2008 that was loaded with XP, but runs AntiX Linux adequately. The phone I gave away while there was still decent life in the replacement battery.

I haven't scoured the local e-waste bin since the pandemic hit but I have found useful things in there which I tried to find a new home for. A PVR which powered up fine was given to somebody who restores DVD players and similar for charity recipients. Laptop power packs have been rehomed. Lots of non-USB phone chargers which I may or may not be able to repurpose for project PSUs. Many Ethernet patch cables, fortunately 5E or 6. Can't do much with ADSL modems, ADSL is on the way out here. Some of the stuff may go back into the bin. That's how it is.

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