Get all your bits and pieces together.

The gerber files I used are in github (

https://github.com/wannabeerased/arcadeadapter). I used http://dirtypcbs.com/ to have them made up, at the time it cost me $14 for 10 PCBs delivered.

Try to get a right angle FFC connector if possible.  I was only able to get a hold of a straight one and I expect it will lead to layout problems later when I go to box it all up.

The resisters I used are 8.2KΩ but this seems to be flexible.  Other sources seem to suggest anything around 7.5KΩ is fine.  I measured the resistors on the original controller to be 8.7KΩ and 9.4KΩ.

Solder that bad boy up, this isn't the most complicated PCB in the world so this step should be pretty straight forward.

Crack open the old PS3 controller and hook it up via your FFC.  I'm using an old Sixaxis that the analog sticks had gone on.  I'll probably de-solder them later and replace them with the appropriate fixed resistors so they always read dead centre.

Time to start testing, I'd already had the donor controller hooked up to my PC via bluetooth using the SCPDriver (http://forums.pcsx2.net/Thread-XInput-Wrapper-for-...) so I tested via bluetooth.  The USB connection should work just as well.  Or you could test hooking up to a PS3 but I find the windows joystick config gives the best visual feedback.

It's important to note that the buttons must be wired up to the correct common/ground or they won't read correctly (i.e. L1 & L2 must use the same ground at the D-Pad).

To test I went ahead and wired up my joystick and buttons in a spare Cardboard box, this also let me test out my proposed layout at the same time.  It's messy for now, but it does the trick.

Build yourself a nice box, hopefully wired up better than I did above, and get playing.  Some handy additions that I plan on putting in are:

• External access to the USB port for charging / syncing
• External LEDs (or make the existing ones externally visible) to see when the controller is on and which ID it has been assigned.