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ROVER-X

A STEM PROJECT

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Rover-X is a replica of the Curiosity and Perseverance Rovers sent to Mars by NASA, designed and modeled after the Sawppy Rover by Roger. Thank you https://hackaday.io/project/158208-sawppy-the-rover

ROVER-X will be used at a School Assembly Program to engage students in STEM related activities in Planetary Science.

This build page has several logs, photos, and files. The stl. files have changes I made to some 3D printed parts and I used on my Rover. The project logs have my progress and work.

NOTE:

Mechanically-speaking, I suggest using the edits I used on my rover which also include the ones I borrowed from the CJ rover (Thank you https://hackaday.io/project/165094-cj-a-sawppy-variant).

On my rover there are 4 stl. I borrowed from the CJ rover, and 4 that are my own (together they account for half of the printed parts). In addition, the steel shafts are edited on the CJ rover and on mine (I also replaced 4 of them with screws, washers, and locking nuts). Moreover, On CJ rover and on mine the servo horns are metal, but I mounted mine differently and I bought different screws for them. There are a bunch of locking nuts on my differential and a few screws that are different on the center parts of the differential box too. I did not print the power and battery tray because those will be inside the rover.

FloorSupport.stl

Print two of these to support the Plex Glass floor of the rover, they go in the middle on both right and left sides, and use the 16mm M3 screws & Nuts we have been using.

Standard Tesselated Geometry - 33.38 kB - 08/03/2020 at 22:53

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Servo Bracket Final v2.stl

The original one uses two screws into the servo bracket to mount the bracket to the wall and mount the servo to the bracket. That design is not sound, this one uses slots for proper mounting, and a clamp for holding the servo.

Standard Tesselated Geometry - 57.11 kB - 07/27/2020 at 06:18

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DiffCenterJoint v1.stl

The original one is the wrong size. I made this one, it was a little tight so I needed to sand it a little with a fine sand paper, worked perfect after that.

Standard Tesselated Geometry - 224.79 kB - 07/27/2020 at 06:17

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DiffTopMountFixed v1.stl

The original one is the wrong size. I made this one, and it works with the bottom one that I also made.

Standard Tesselated Geometry - 126.64 kB - 07/27/2020 at 06:16

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DiffBottomBracketFixed v1.stl

The original one is the wrong size. I made this one and it also mounts a little different.

Standard Tesselated Geometry - 96.96 kB - 07/27/2020 at 06:15

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View all 7 files

  • Power & Control Panel

    Ameer08/01/2020 at 08:40 0 comments

    After completing the mechanical assembly of the rover, a Raspberry Pi-4B computer and Several other components will be places on a panel inside the rover - ultimately connecting to the 10 Servo Motors that move the rover. It will be wirelessly controlled by a tablet that communicates with the rover on a closet network using a router.

    I will detail the work below as I go on.

    STARTING with the floor tray for the rover,  I used a 3mm thick clear plex glass piece.

    Size is 40cm x 23.5cm do it Slides in from either front or back of Rover Chassis box and fits Perfect inside the Aluminum Extrusion Grooves. I Needed to design and print middle Floor Support arms (shown in the pic below). I uploaded an stl. for them with the other files.

    Here is a pic of some parts that will be withinin the rover compartment, randomly placed on the floor pan:

    Bus Linker, RPi-4B, Fuse, Starter Button, Voltage Regulator, Battery.

    I also bought a set of extension wires for the servos.  The original connector name of the LX-16A servo is 5264-3Y.

    Not pictured here are:

    1. The Tablet / Phone that controls the rover

    2. The Battery wall-Charger

    3. The router I will be using for this rover.

    4. Misc wires to connect all these components together

  • Mechanically Complete

    Ameer07/29/2020 at 21:13 1 comment

    On July 28, 2020 the Rover finally stood on its own wheels, that's just a week after China Launched its Rover to Mars, and only two days before the launch of Nasa's Perseverance Rover to Mars.

    Next. I will be working on the Power & Control module.

    I want to thank Roger, Laura, and my brother Johnny for their support and help.

  • Non-Original Parts

    Ameer07/26/2020 at 20:07 2 comments

    The original design works, but as Roger and several others realized some mechanical weaknesses they made recommendations.  Here are some of the mechanical things that I changed:

    * I bought and used Screws, Washers, and Locking Nuts for the Bogy and Rocker Joint Shafts. They fit the Barings perfectly. 4 Screws, 4 Nuts, and 12 Washers.

    * When I redesigned the bottom part of the Central Differential joint, I made it to accept 24mm M3 Screws and Locking Nuts. Only 4 needed (the black screws in the pic below). I also used locking nuts on all 10 Screws that combine the differential two parts together (visible in the pic). 

    * I used 40 of the 12mm M3 Button Head Screws to mount the Servo Couplers onto the Servo Metal Horns.

    * I bought 10 Metal Horns. They were used on the CJ Rover, I used different screws on them - so on my rover the screws go into the coupler first then exit and thread onto the metal horn. They were these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D56FVK5/

    * I used a 16mm M3 Screw and a Locking Nut for each of the Servo Bracket Clamps that I redesigned to clamp the servos. Also visible are the two slots I designed for nuts to proporly mount the bracket to the wall.

    * The shafts I made were similar to the ones on CJ the Rover, and are different than the original design (Shaved all the way to the edge on both sides of the Barings). Those work with the original design parts, but work better with the few parts edited and printed for them in the CJ design, which I also used.

  • 3D-Printed Parts

    Ameer04/26/2020 at 03:52 0 comments

    My first assignment was to print the 3D needed parts. I used my Prusa MK3s and Red and Black PLA.

    I printed 'ALMOST' all the parts from the .stl files posted by Roger.

    Here are the variations

    Mirrored Parts:

    I printed the Knuckles mirrored to place the motors in symmetry, and at some point in the future I will be printing 3 wheels mirrored because unlike on the real curiosity rover our wheels have directional spokes.

    Edited Parts:

    I printed 4 components from the STL's edited by (CJ Rover) to accommodate enforced mounting of moving parts, two of those 4 components (Triangle Wheel Couplers, and Round Servo Couplers) I printed at 100% infill for Strength.

    I also printed 4 parts from my own redesign (The 3 parts in the Center Differential Joints), because the central differential joints didn't fit properly from the original .stl. I printed the bottom one in a different shape.  As I got close to mounting the servos and wheels I realized that I am not happy with how the servos mount into the brackets or how the brackets mount into the walls; so I redesigned the Servo Brackets (and printed all 10 of them in 100% infill).

    Did not Print:

    I did not print the Battery Tray or the Power Tray; I will print those trays when I decide where to mount the parts later.

    Special thanks to Roger and to Laura for guidance.

    COSTS

    * 3D-Print the Parts Yourself $100

    I used less than 1KG of Black PLA for Wheels, and less than 2KG of Red PLA for all other parts. I Paid $75 on eBay for all 3KG Shipped, and my Printer used about $20 worth of Electricity. If you have a 3D Printer with suitable size bed you should be looking about the same of what it cost me.

    * Have someone 3D Print them for you $600

    Don't have a 3D-Printer? Don't want to learn the Slicer software? or deal with 2 Weeks of printing? I found a few places online, and this one seems reputable https://print.all3dp.com/ so I uploaded all the parts and the total was $600 for the Entire Set; Tax and Shipping Included.  I suppose you just have to instruct them which parts you want mirrored along the x-axis, and about the infill factor being 30%.

  • Raspberry Pi 4B

    Ameer04/25/2020 at 16:53 0 comments

    I decided to use the newest Raspberry Pi model; the 4 B.

    It can be powered via the USB-C port, and it uses a Micro-HDMI to output display.  You will also need an 8GB Micro SD Card (or 16 or 32; I chose a 16GB), and an SD Card Sleeve for it.

    https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/

    Download The firmware Raspbian onto your PC, download Installer onto your PC as well, then run Installer and choose Raspbian as the firmware and the Micro SD Card as the place to install its image.

    NOTE: If you buy a Pi4-B make sure you also buy or have:

    HDMI- Micro-HDMI Chord

    USB-C power & chord with 5 volts and 3.1 amps

    Gen 10, micro SD card  & SD Sleeve

    You will need a USB Keyboard and a USB Mouse later to use the Pi

    Then, for your Battery you will also need to buy:

    Battery Charger

    T Plug Connector

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