Hotrod Ender 5's for the hackerspace.

Build log of 2 new 3D printers for Heatsync Labs hackerspace (

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Taking stock Ender 5 printers and modifying them for use/abuse in a hackerspace setting.These 3D printers are currently set up and available for use at HeatSync Labs in Mesa, AZ

As of now:

Both 3D printers are operational, and you can use the MicroSD cards that are inserted into the printers, or Octoprint on the newly installed Octopi's to make prints. You can use any computer connected to the Lab network or Wi-Fi to access these, the IP's are on the printers. I will be making them static once I make it down there again.

Cura (Currently 4.6.2) is installed on the desktop computer at the 3D printing station, and you can use whatever software you want to use just so long as you have a profile for the Ender 5. The only thing special you will need to configure compared to a stock Ender 5 is inserting the command to run the Auto Bed Leveler in the software's 3d "Machine Settings".

You need to find the "G28" command (Which is for "Home") and add a "G29" command right after it to initialize the Auto Bed Leveler.

G28 ;Home
G29 ;Auto Bed Level 

^ Example of G29 code to add^

If your slicer does not have an "Ender 5" option, some important bits to know (For ours as configured)

X (Width): 220mm

Y (Depth): 220mm

Z (Height): 300mm

Gantry Height: 25mm

Build plate shape: Rectangular

Heated bed: Yes

Fan Speed Control: Yes

G-code Flavor: Marlin

Number of Extruders: 1

Nozzle Diameter: .4mm (Unless you changed it of course!)

Material Diameter: 1.75m

To Do:

Give the Raspberry Pi 4's / Pi 4 cases something to mount to the printer with

10 step style 'easy' guide to printing stuff

Replace Logitech C270 Web Cameras with Pi cameras (Unless lazy)

Local instance of "The Spaghetti Detective" to aid in detecting and stopping failed prints

Tackle Box to keep spare parts and tools for each printer

3 Ring binder with instructions and maintenance/mod logs per printer

Filament sensor(?)

Acrylic side/upper panels for ABS work(?)

Specific Cura profiles (Or perhaps some other slicer)

Profiles inside of the slic3r addon for OctoPi


Firmware for the HSL E5-001 printer (No filament sensor, BL Touch enabled)

octet-stream - 193.46 kB - 09/01/2020 at 17:17



Configuration.h for the HSL E5-001 printer (No filament sensor, BL Touch enabled)

h - 599.00 bytes - 09/01/2020 at 17:17



Firmware for the HSL E5-001 printer (No filament sensor, no BL Touch)

octet-stream - 179.42 kB - 06/20/2020 at 01:17



Configuration.h for the HSL E5-001 printer (No filament sensor, no BL Touch)

h - 421.00 bytes - 06/20/2020 at 01:18



Marlin 1.1.9 for use with stock Creality V1.1.9 board

x-zip-compressed - 4.78 MB - 06/20/2020 at 08:11


View all 19 files

  • 1 × Creality Ender 5 3D printer
  • 1 × Meanwell LRS-350-24 350 Watt power supply
  • 1 × Logitech C270 webcam (or Raspberry Pi Camera) View stuff in Octoprint
  • 1 × 3D printed Snap-in cable protector
  • 1 × TH3D EZBoard Lite V1.2 Drop in replacement 32-bit control board.

View all 20 components

  • Capricorn tubing and Pi 08

    cprossu09/08/2020 at 15:02 0 comments

    I was intending to see how long the PTFE tubing would last in use, however I noticed quite a few improvements with my own printers when I installed capricorn tubing on my own machinei, so instead of waiting it out I decided to beat the rush, get some tubing, and set about installing it. I ordered 2 Meters and figured that would take care of both machines. In fact I had enough to do 3 Ender 5's, which is pretty cool.

    There was ABS in the printer left from the previous print, and since the machine was all together my first operation was to heat the nozzle up so I wouldn't have a bad time removing anything.

    I then pushed a little of the ABS through the nozzle and pulled out the filament.

    Overview of the machine, we're going to be replacing the white tube going from the print head/extruder to the extruder drive in the back right of this photo.

    Remove our snazzy fan shroud for now, it's going to be in the way of what we need to do next.

    Loosened the nut on the compression fitting for the heatbreak/extruder, which allowed me to pull the PTFE right out and easily.

    I used the old PTFE tube for 2 things: 1) To measure out how much capricorn tubing I'd need (I added 1/8" for good luck), and 2) to push out the debris inside the extruder heatbreak once I pulled the nozzle off.

    The kit I got came with a tubing cutter, so I used it to cut the tubing to length, making care to keep it flush and as straight as possible.

    I used a 1/4" hex nut driver to remove the nozzle for clearing, and I also used it to hold the nozzle in a good position when working with inserting the new capricorn. I inserted the capricorn's most parallel/flat end into the heatbreak, and I extended the new tubing below where it needed to be. I threaded the compression fitting on lightly and then pushed it up using the pressure of the nozzle being threaded in from underneath. I wanted to make sure the nozzle and the end of the tubing had as little of a gap as possible, and then tightened both the nozzle and the compression fitting up. I do not recommend using the included nozzle wrench with your printer, it will cause damage to your nozzles especially if they are brass. A good 6 point socket or nut driver works wonders on these nozzles.

    I fed the capricorn tubing through all the existing tie wraps since I knew it was just a little smaller than the PTFE tubing that came before it, making it easy. You really should replace your tie wraps, I was just being lazy and not setting a good example here.

    We picked up a couple of Raspberry Pi 4 2GB boards to use for Octoprint since all the 3B's were out of stock so long, and the project dragged on until most of the problems in Octoprint relating to the 4 were cured (YAY!)

    I used the printers to make some Pi 4 cases (prior to installing the new capricorn boden tube). Clearly I am going to have to work on the cura profiles, or figure out why we're getting this much stringing. Guessing my retraction is out of whack. Still fun to see both printers are making exactly the same defects!

    I downloaded OctoPi and used Etcher ( from a windows box to install the OctpPrint image onto a 16GB MicroSD card for both machines. I edited the octopi-wpa-supplicant.txt file on the BOOT partition of the MicroSD card and uncommented the lines for the network I was going to use and the country I was in (In this case the WPA2 sections and the US country code). This allowed me to get them on the network and configure them. I should do an in depth post on that, however I did not take enough pictures or grab screenshots when I did it last night. Also we had a couple of Logitech C270 web cams laying around, so I just set those on the printer for now until we get some Pi cameras.

    irst print with the octopi and capricorn tubing frankly looks amazing. No complaints here.
    Edit 09/08/2020

    First print done with the OctoPrint and the Capricorn...
    Read more »

  • A quick extra touch 07

    cprossu09/02/2020 at 21:41 0 comments

    After noting some problems that could be fixed with limiting the air coming down from the heatbreak fan, and other issues that could be helped out with more even cooling, I printed blower/fan parts coolers for both printers in

    Again that's from , and if thingiverse implodes (like it has a tendency to do), you can grab the file out of the project files on the hackaday page for these printers.

    Remove the two lower allen head screws holding the blower assembly for the blower shroud, and mind the blower cover, it likes to pop off! Remove the stock blower shroud at the bottom.

    Put the new blower shroud on. There's a clip on the back of the new shroud, make sure it lines up with the back end of the metal cover or it will go on uneven and you'll not be very happy needing to unbolt it again for another try!

    Admire your handiwork, look for any low or uneven spots, and make sure it all fits as you intend it to.

    Dang that looks good!

  • Another build day 06

    cprossu09/01/2020 at 16:16 0 comments

    It was really hot in terms of temperature at our hackerspace since our Air Conditioner basically imploded, so I did not take as many pics as I did of the first printer going together, and the ones I did take are awful in terms of quality.

    On the previous printer build I did not show how I installed the glass printer bed:

    I removed the pull off magnetic bed from the top, but left the magnet surface below intact so we can use it later on if we want. I  held the glass bed onto the machine using small binder clips.

    We finally got the BLTouch kits in so I figured I would go about first building it into this machine, then adding it to the existing machine after I knew what I was doing.

    Since this printer was still being built, I decided here to take everything apart and see what I would need to do.

    One of the nice things about the Ender 5 is how serviceable and easy to get to everything is compared to quite a few other designs of printer. This makes modification a bit easier, and if you are careful you can make sure that mods you do don't interfere with other mods, or make the printer harder to service.

    I was hoping to find a good pinout in the manual for installing this thing, but what I found instead was generalizations. This is China so I know from experience that nothing, especially pinouts, wire color, and polarity, is a given. If I don't want to blow this thing up, I must take my time here, especially since I am using a third party controller board and not their own.

    So we need to do a little research now,. The White and Black wires connect to where the limit switch would go, and that seems normal. What is puzzling now is looking at the colors Blue, Red, and Yellow. When I look at the documentation for the EZBoard Lite V1.2, and other BLTouch sensors, the common color coding seems to be Brown, Red, and Yellow.

    Well at least it's "close", but "close" and "correct" are two different things when you are trying to keep the magic smoke inside of a device.

    So our TH3D documentation expects Ground on the brown wire, 5 Volts on the red wire, and the Signal coming on the Yellow Wire. Looking at our stock BL Touch sensor image from the internet, we see that our wiring harness matches up except for the wire in the brown position being blue. No sweat, let's look at the connector we're to plug into the control board next.

    WHOAAAA THERE! That's not going to work at all. Our control board would be sending 5 volts right down the ground, and the 5 volt wire would be grounded. In other words the polarity would be reversed! I understand some newer versions of these sensors are not supposed to blow up if they are hooked up wrong, but let's not test that today!

    We're going to do this the wrong way and use a jewler's flathead screwdriver to extract the terminals we need to swap out from the housing by carefully and not breaking the plastic housing, or the tab holding each terminal in place.

    Good enough. I better make a note of this here:

    If you are from Heatsync Labs looking at this post in the future and are installing the stock Creality V1.1.4 Board for some reason, do NOT INSTALL the BLTouch without swapping around the polarity on the connector!

    (Also reminder to self: Add that note to the place the stock board is placed in so this doesn't happen, maybe even wrap the old control board with the note so they have to take the note off before getting to the old stock board)

    I really would prefer it if I could install the BLTouch in such a way as you could remove the fan shroud/hotend without removing the BLTouch, however that's not the way this kit is set up. Perhaps that will be a thought for future builds. At least the bracket is metal, and it is pretty easy to take on/off. They do give you longer screws to hold both the bracket and the fan shroud in, so I suggest using them.I managed not to take any pictures of using Velcro and Zip Ties to affix the BLTouch wiring...

    Read more »

  • Tweaking and waiting for parts 05

    cprossu07/19/2020 at 16:15 0 comments

    We have been using the first Ender 5 we built for a while now and I got to the lab to finally able to tweak some things that needed doing.. I've decided I will better document the procedures when I build the second printer up.

    1.) The firmware I built from the TH3D site did not have stealthchop enabled on the Extruder stepper motor, so it was noisy. I have enabled stealthchop for the extruder stepper motor via the advanced configuration menu inside of marlin menu on the printer itselt, and it's all good now.

    2.) The squeaking of the Z axis drive was solved by removing the Z axis leadscrew, cleaning the grease off of it and the brass leadscrew nut with isopropyl alcohol, flipping the leadscrew upside down from the as installed position, and lubricating it with Zoom Spout oil.

    I am happy with the results we've been getting so far. Although I was intending to shim the bed, it may not be needed afterall. The printer is being put through it's paces, and the second printer that was missing finally got delivered. We are still waiting on the BLTouch kits. They have now been shipped, however they have arrived in the states.

    I have decided I will build the second printer with the BLTouch kit and also document the steps I missed when building the first machine. I'm set on finding any issues with the bed leveler, and also learning how to use it, before I modify the first printer.

    Other than that, both machines will likely get wiring dress with some clear spiral wrap similar to how I have my own Ender 5 at home set up. I'm not yet sure how I want to try and make the wiring easy to get to if it comes time to replace the hotend or either of the fans, however I want this to be an easy task when the time comes. Just as my own ender 5 at home, the v-groove delrin/plastic bearings do collect dust, and I am trying to decide if a little felt/brush wipe might be in order, or just to have one near the machine for people to manually clean/dust the bearings. I'm thinking we should also get a pack or two of them since they are cheap enough to have laying around as spare parts just in case. Each machine uses 11 of the things. (They can be source on Amazon for around $1 each in packs of pretty much whatever you want, buyer beware though, read the reviews, some are correctly sized, some are not!)

  • Build day 04

    cprossu06/20/2020 at 01:02 3 comments

    All things do not go as planned. One of our printers does not seemed to have shipped, or got lost along the way, and both of our BL Touch kits were missing in action, and contrary to the initial order in fact backordered until who knows when. Raspberry Pi 3B's are still nowhere to be found, however at least it looks like there's been a lot of movement on the Raspberry Pi 4 boards and octoprint, so that may very well be the way we go.

    So the first build day was here and has passed, I officially did it back on 06/13/2020. Not everything I want is installed on the printer, however it is functional, so I will take you on a journey of checking out what we have and building the unit we did get in up.

    So in this picture, starting from the upper left, we have our two extra entire stock Ender 5 extruder assemblies, 2 "T-Nut" kits that were recommended, and two aluminum "geared extruder feeder" upgrade parts. Going from the bottom left there are two tempered glass Creality branded printer beds, two Meanwell 24V-350Watt power supplies (Model LRS-350-24), two TH3D EZBoard Lite V1.2 control boards, and two TH3D filament sensors which are supported natively by the EZBoard control boards. No Ender 5 BLTouch bed leveling kits to be found.

    In this picture you can see we only got one of our two promised Ender 5 3D printers. We shall build this one up and use it as an opportunity when the second one comes in to document anything I forgot to on this machine. (Well other than the BLTouch kit that is). I already checked that there were not in fact 2 printers occupying the same dimensional space through a quirk of quantum physics, sadly.

    Now to make sure we have enough pieces and parts to build a printer out of, time to spread it out and make sure it's all here. Going from Left to Right, Up to Down on the table closest to us, We've got 4 double wide aluminum '2020' extrusions that will be the support structure for the top of the machine, we have a roll of filament kindly provided for testing, the stock Ender 5 display screen (in a mylar bag), the extruder feeder assembly, the heated printbed, the Z Axis  assembly (which includes motor, bearing assemblies, lead screw, mounting hardware, and aluminum '2020' extrusions, the base of the machine (which includes the stock power supply, stock control board, a case covering both, wiring, aluminum extrusions, and various pieces of mounting hardware and triangle brackets. They've also been kind enough to supply a assembly for hanging a roll of filament off the side of the printer, a power cord, a scraper, and a bag of machine screws and tools for the printer.

    Here is our X and Y Axis gantry crane (which contains the entire extruder assembly (PTFE tube, wiring, heater block, heater cartridge, thermistor, a fan, a blower, a heatbreak, nozzle, nozzle cover, and a dandy metal shroud to keep it all contained), the X axis motor, the Y axis motor, bearings and belts all over the place ready to drive both, aluminum '2020' extrusions and triangle brackets to hold it all together. This part goes on the top!

    This is a great time to feed all of our wiring through the snap in cable protector we printed up earlier for this very reason.

    It snaps in place, showing us that we did good. Now the sharp edges of this metal casing will not wear through the control wires of the machine. This is a very good thing.

    While we're down here, let's change the voltage of the stock power supply to match what we get in USA voltage electron magic pixies out of our standard outlets.

    Much better. Even though we don't plan on using this power supply, we want to make sure it's ready to go in case we press it into action later. Speaking of that power supply, we need to get this thing out of there!

    Just so you know, the really nifty top part of the control box with the awesome assembly instructions is hiding the screws for the power supply. Not cool!

    Wow, that is a lot of adhesive, took a...

    Read more »

  • Most parts ordered 03

    cprossu06/07/2020 at 20:26 0 comments

    All of the parts are on their way or have been shipped now.

    Both Ender 5 printers were shipped out, the TH3D EZBoard Lite V1.2 boards became in stock and were purchased with a filament sensor.  Still not able to get the Raspberry Pi Model 3B's, but adding octoprint to these is not something that is needed for initial operation and modification.

    I have decided against moving any of the endstop limit switches to keep these as stock as possible. This also means that for the moment I will not be using the second rear right Y axis cover, as it requires another bracket for moving the Y axis limit switch. 

    A little tangent, probably belongs more in my Ender 3 Pro build and mods page that I am making, however it was my backup plan in case the original boards I had decided on did not arrive or could not be ordered.

    Since I got my Big Tree Tech SKR Mini E3 V1.2 boards in and had some time to configure and mess with them I have determined there are certainly oversights in the engineering that stop these from being used on my hackerspace's printers.

    Some of the screws are REALLY CLOSE to components and it would not be farfetched that if these boards were ever removed that if the utmost care was not taken in putting it back into place that one or more of these components could be shorted to the chassis or eachother. I had to angle my own board to avoid any kind of contact of components against screws, and I would say if you are using stock mounting hardware on Ender 3 or Ender 5 printers and have this board, you should check your own installation to make sure nothing shorts out. I have not consulted the schematic or board layouts to confirm exactly what would happen though. I have been told that they have increased clearances in the SKR Mini E3 V2 board that they will be offering soon.

    Anyway, while it's fine for my own machine, I will not be babysitting the ones at the hackerspace, or doing the bulk of the maintenance over their lifetime.

    Also interesting is that the "FAN0" and "FAN1" options on the SKR Mini E3 V1.2 are swapped around compared to the stock Creality v1.1.4 board.

    So it is not a 1 to 1 install (Very close though!)

    Miss this fact, and the fan% speed of your parts cooler will instead be controlling the fan that cools your control board, and your parts fan will be running 100%

    ^ So do this, not the other thing! Trap for young players!

    I have also decided to start working on the format for the google document that will be printed for physical documentation, and kind of deciding how I want that to look.

    I would like there to be physical documentation, likely in a 2" 3 'slanted D ring' binder in page protectors, a google doc, a PDF hosted on our wiki, the documentation of the build here hosted on as well as details on our Google Groups page, that way we have redundancy. I am literally making this up as I go along, and I think it will start getting more cohesive as I actually get all the parts together and build the printers up and get to the point of operating them.

    I will be updating the stock creality v1.1.4 boards with stock marlin software (likely the same v1.1.9 firmware I am using on my own Ender 5) to use as backup units in case the fancy boards have some sort of failure. This will include burning a bootloader on them, pushing custom firmware to them (to ensure important things like thermal runaway protection are indeed enabled), and making sure that they function as intended.

    I want each printer to have a tacklebox of parts, and some kind of modification/repair log. Since we're replacing the control boards and the power supplies on each printer,

    each machine will have available as spares:

    1 stock power supply (original generic unit, likely a Landy brand, I might actually tag it "TEMPORARY USE...

    Read more »

  • Printing parts 02

    cprossu05/27/2020 at 01:14 0 comments

    These X-Axis gantry covers are printed in 3DFuel Midnight Black Workday PETG at 257C with a 25% cubic infill with a .6MM nozzle on a Ender 5 running Marlin 1.1.9 firmware on a stock v1.1.4 control board using Cura as the slicer

    Ender 5 X-Axis belt covers by D_jespersen

    ^ Example of Left side X-Axis Gantry cover installed (Snaps into place) on my Ender 5.

    These Y-Axis covers are printed in 3DFuel Midnight Black Workday PETG at 257C with a 25% cubic infill with a .6MM nozzle on a Ender 5 running Marlin 1.1.9 firmware on a stock v1.1.4 control board using Cura as the slicer.

    Ender 5 Y-Axis belt covers (Front Left and Front Right) by D_jespersen

    ^ Example of where Front Left Y-Axis cover is installed, and it installed on my Ender 5.

    These Y-Axis covers are printed in 3DFuel Midnight Black Workday PETG at 257C with a 25% cubic infill with a .6MM nozzle on a Ender 5 running Marlin 1.1.9 firmware on a stock v1.1.4 control board using Cura as the slicer.

    Ender 5 Y-Axis belt cover (Rear Left) by D_jespersen

    ^ Example of Rear Left Y-Axis belt cover installed (Snaps into place, but can be fastened if needed).

    I have printed the Rear Right Y-Axis covers, however I am unsure if I am going to install them, as they will only work with the stock location of the Y Axis limit switch if modified, and the file does contain a printable mod to move the limit switch, it's just I do not yet know if I am going to use it yet. I do want to keep as much of the motion system stock as possible to make future repairs easier and more straight forward.

  • Printing parts 01

    cprossu05/26/2020 at 22:42 0 comments

    This heater bed strain relief was printed in 3DFuel Midnight Black Workday PETG at 257C with no infill with a .4MM nozzle on a Ender 3 Pro running Marlin firmware on a stock v1.1.4 control board using Cura as the slicer.

    Ender-5 Bed Strain Relief by derandi3d

    ^ Example of same part fitted to my own Ender 5, to relieve stress that could occur on the heater bed wires.

    This cable protector was printed in 3DFuel Midnight Black Workday PETG at 257C with no infill with a .4MM nozzle on a Ender 3 Pro running Marlin firmware on a stock v1.1.4 control board using Cura as the slicer.

    Cable protection for Ender-5 by lgaga

    ^ This snaps into the box containing the power supply and the control board where all the cables come into. I have not added this mod to my own printer, as my printer is working very well right now and I have another method of protecting the cables in place already (Don't fix what isn't broken!), however these will be installed on the new printers as all the wiring needs to be removed anyway for the board swap.

  • Printing parts 00

    cprossu05/26/2020 at 22:31 0 comments

    These bed supports are printed in 3DFuel Midnight Black Workday PETG at 257C with a 25% cubic infill with a .6MM nozzle on a Ender 5 running Marlin 1.1.9 firmware on a stock v1.1.4 control board using Cura as the slicer.

    Ender 5 Bed Supports by BoothyBoothy

    ^ early attempt at a dry fit of a earlier printed arm showing location of the left side bed support arm installed on my own printer.

  • Start of project after proposal was completed.

    cprossu05/17/2020 at 00:47 0 comments

    I put in a proposal to our hackerspace to procure and modify 2 Creality Ender 5 printers.

    I wanted to upgrade them with 32bit controller boards and what should be a more reliable power supply compared to what they come with. The idea was to get 2 printers at less than the cost of a new Ultimaker, since our Ultimaker 2 is on it's last legs. I wanted to run 2 identical printers with identical mods, and have a stock of replacement parts for them too. The idea behind that was I wanted to be able to cobble one functional printer out of the two, should they go down for any reason. Two completely modified Ender 5's are still way less money than a Ultimaker 2+ would be, so I figured it was worth a go based on the ownership I have had of my personal Ender 5 unit.

    I like the fact that these things have a really large community behind them, that the power supply is enclosed in a metal box below the unit, and servicing the Ender 5 is quite a bit easier than the 3 is. All motors, wiring, hotend, etc are easily accessible without removing the bed from the unit. Also in my thought process was the fact that we don't have to worry so much about clearances or things people might put on the table behind or in front of the printers, as the bed only moves on the Z axis. One stepper motor per axis removes some complication from troubleshooting issues too.

    Details of the proposal were archived on our Google Group, link below.

    The 3D printers were ordered as were most of the spare parts and non-3d printed mods that are going onto this printer. We're still waiting to see if the TH3D EZBoard Lite V1.2 boards ever go back into stock, and if they don't, we'll be ditching them to use BIGTREETECH SKR MINI E3 V1.2 or V2 boards instead.

    I am currently using my own 3D printers at home to print some mods for the printers, and to get the parts ready for assembly. Some mods are easier to install prior to the printer being put together.

    The current list so far

    Heatbed cable strain relief

    Snap-in cable protector

    X-axis belt/pulley covers

    Y-axis belt/pulley covers

View all 10 project logs

  • 1
    Viewing project logs in chronological order.

    I have attempted to use my project logs to show the build as it happened, so I think the best way if you wish to replicate the machines seen here, or need to know how they went together is to start at the beginning before we had the printers, what was done then, and following the build of the printers as the parts came in.

    ^ This link should do the trick! :)

    Let me know if there's anything I need to put into the logs for completeness, or anything I can do better to convey what might not have been written or said! Maybe if something can be done better we can add that too!

    Sometimes it's hard to document each and every step and I miss one or more!

View all instructions

Enjoy this project?



Mike Szczys wrote 05/26/2020 at 21:03 point

Syncing up your printer models makes a lot of sense for a community space like this. As you mentioned, you can stock parts that need frequent repalcement, but you also get a good benefit in people knowing how to use them and how to configure software for them compared to having multiple makers/models on hand.

  Are you sure? yes | no

cprossu wrote 05/26/2020 at 21:16 point

Exactly my thinking. Also I am really liking the Ender 5's design when it comes to each part of it (including all the stepper motors) being open and easy to get to. We'll see once we get them going and as soon as things become normal again how things go and what ends up failing. I still don't have a source on the TH3D Easyboard Lite v1.2's I need for this project, and I'm a little cautious to use the SKR Mini E3 boards. I have 2 on the way for my personal use, however a lot of people in the community are reporting counterfeit parts on these boards, like those used for heater control of the hotend and nozzle. I picked up a Ender 3 Pro when I was making PPE locally, and there's a ton of things that you need to account for if we were to put those into service instead. 

There are some other mods I have been contemplating, like changing out the heatbreak for a titanium one or switching it out for a micro swiss all metal hotend clone (which will then necessitate a oiling system for the filament, basically a sponge that you oil that would go around the filament you use to 'season' the end), adding a filament out sensor (likely will be purchased with the ezboard lite if they ever get in stock again), replacing some of the hardware with thumbscrews or easier to get out fasteners for things that will have to be gotten to. (A good example would be the two tiny machine screws that are used to hold the fan assembly shroud to the x axis. ). It probably would also be a good idea to source some extra plastic/delrin V groove bearings to have on hand since two of the axis on the machines use these.

Thanks for replying, I have a lot of the parts printed for these, and this was a good reminder I need to take pictures and post them with some kind of update.

  Are you sure? yes | no

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