We used 3 perimeters of 0,7mm, but more perimeters equalling 2mm wall thickness should also work. Make sure you are accustomed printing larges pieces as these warp and loosen from the bed easily. A heated chamber made from cardboard helped us raising the temperature to 30-35°C.

• Speed: 60mm/s
• Rafts: Doesn't Matter
• Supports: Yes
• Resolution: 0.15mm
• Infill: 8%
• Filament material: PLA
• Filament_brand: Anything cheap

Dissolve ~150g scrap PLA in 300ml DCM to create a gap filling glue that will chemically weld the parts together. Let it sit for 24h to dissolve properly.

Stack the 5 pieces that make up the blade on top of each other and add DCM-glue in between. Firmly pressing both parts together after you applied the glue. Be careful that they line up properly!

Add glue to each part and press everything together firmly for half a minute. That should be enough to hold everything in place.

Warning! Only glue the top 4 parts together, and the bottom 4 parts. Don't add top and bottom together yet because the stator has to be fitted in between.

A coil winder can be made from leftover scraps of wood and bolts. Make life easy and print coilwinder.stl so you have the perfect coil core.

Finish the coil winder with a backplate like shown in the picture.

After you have turned 90 times, put some glue on the outside to prevent unwinding of the coil.

Repeat this and the previous step until you have 9 identical coils.

Print mould.stl 4 times and glue them together with the DCM-glue from the previous steps.  After that, grease the mould and fit all 9 coils in it on a equal distance from eachother and with the same side up (all turning in the same direction).

Pour the polyester resin in the mould until it is full and clamp a thick piece of plywood on top so it doesn’t fold. Remember, we want to keep the stator as thin as possible!

Let the mould sit for 24h, after that it can be opened again.