Casio PT-10 mods

modding the small keyboard to add functionality

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it's a lovely keyboard and I poked around a bit. Inside is a 100k pitch knob for tuning, when you touch it, it also bends. Nice. There's a separate line for the tones and one for the drums, before they meet in the mixer and get blasted through the speaker.

The Casio PT-10 is a cute little monophonic + drums keyboard with no headphone jack. It has a speaker and comes with the lovely drums that TRIO used in their famous "da-da-da" song.

I have one and will be careful to modify it in a most case-friendly way.

Step one: add a switch to the speaker and get the signal out on a 3.5mm socket. 

Step two: replace internal pitch knob and get the signal out.

The inspiration to look for the separate lines I got from this page. My board is different though, the chip is SMD and not through hole.

seems to be the same board here:

The Casio PT-10 uses the same chip as the more known Casio VL-Tone VL-1, it's the D1867G. This is also in some other keyboards, you can find more info here:

  • single channels

    davedarko12/17/2020 at 21:41 0 comments

    The tone / notes are mixed with the drums together and amplified, put through the speaker. Before that you can grab them from pin 12 (voice) and 13(drums). There might be an envelope channel on pin 11 - at least that;s what was said in one of the very well produced "keen on keys" videos. 

  • Adding an octave switch

    davedarko12/17/2020 at 21:31 0 comments

    This is 3 pictures of the PCB of a VL-Tone VL-1 patched together to one. After a shoutout on twitter people were taking apart their VL-1s for me and took pictures, what a great thing! The main connections for the switch are on the bottom.

    The PT-10 that I own has the same chip in the same case, so I wanted to see if I can add something to the keyboard, that wasn't there before. Wait, did I hack something?

    Counting from the bottom left, pin 8, 9 and 10 are the octave switches, connected through a diode and a 3 way switch to the very last pin. You (sadly) have to cut where the unicorn is pointing to, but it's reversible if you really need to do that. 

    Next up should be tracing the ADSR switch, to get a new instrument out of it. At one point I need to see if I can connect an LED display to replace the LCD. 

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