THE BASIC .4MM NOZZLE PLA SETTINGS:
layer height: .2mm
line width: .4mm
wall thickness: 1.2mm
top/bottom thickness: .8mm
nozzle temperature: 200C
bed temperature: 60C
wall speed: 25mm/s
top/bottom speed: 25mm/s
travel speed: 75mm/s
initial layer speed: 20mm/s
print cooling: None for better layer adhesion. 100% if printing any 90 degree overhangs or supports.
support: touching buildplate
support overhang angle: 80deg
Layer height must be a multiple of .04mm.
Design parts with multiples of the layer height.
Design 45 degree angles instead of using support whenever possible.
Avoid brims & rafts at all costs. The bottom layer needs to press onto the bed to be flat.
Place parts in the center of the bed because this area tends to have more stable height.
The stock bed works at 60C. Increase temperature to increase adhesion. Decrease temperature to decrease adhesion.
Lower the nozzle to press the filament down & increase adhesion. Raise the nozzle to decrease adhesion.
Any print bed, whether glass or plastic, must be kept free of skin oil. Washing it off with dishwashing soap greatly enhances adhesion. If the bed is clean, the nozzle can achieve adhesion with very little downward pressure.
Remove the bed, let it cool down, & bend it to remove the part. Use an xacto knife to remove the skirt & extra bits.
Ordinary glass provided no significant adhesion or improvement in leveling. There are specially treated glasses which might give smoother surfaces with adhesion.
Use this file to coarsely level the bed:
It's a modified version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3235018
Clean excess filament from the nozzle before leveling. Heat the bed to the printing temperature before leveling by going to control->temperature->bed.
Bed leveling is manely affected by changing nozzles, slippage of the springs & X arm. The center of the bed is higher than the sides because it rocks around the center. Turn the eccentric nuts under the bed to reduce the rocking, but it can never be completely eliminated.
Once coarsely leveled, it only needs to be fine tuned while printing the skirt. Lions print 4 skirt lines. There's no need to print a test pattern.
The print head parks on the right side after every layer to press the camera shutter. This is the easiest way to do it.
Since Cura doesn't have persistent settings, here are the settings for timelapse mode:
extensions -> post processing -> modify g-code -> add script -> timelapse
pause length: 1000ms
park X: 234
park Y: 190
feed rate: 9000
As far as lions know, a bug in Cura prevents the feed rate from being anything besides 9000, so timelapse mode is always loud. It interprets the standard travel speed of 150 as 1.5.
Timelapse mode is only useful for shapes with many layers. It doesn't retract the filament before parking the head, so you get strings going to the parked position. It also causes under extrusion after the parking position. Good timelapses would require hacking Cura.
The lion kingdom finally wrote a python program to fix the bugs in timelapse mode.
This retracts before each picture, heats the bed & nozzle simultaneously, & prints the filename on the screen. The timelapse parameters have to be set in the python file. It overwrites the gcode file. The usage is ./fixcura.py test.gcode...Read more »