As a kid I was into all things motorized. Go karts, scooters, mopeds, minibikes. I loved working on small engines as a hobby. Off-roading on a large property or speeding around the neighborhood always brought a smile to my face.
Fast-forward 20 years and we're now driving electric vehicles! Our energy sources are becoming more clean and efficient. I thought it would be fun to take the electric vehicle concept to the go kart of my yesteryear.
So, I present to you the vintage electric go kart!
The battery cells and hardware have finally arrived. I spent the week building the battery pack and testing functions of the front panel wiring.
As previously mentioned the battery is a 20S2P configuration. Nominal voltage should be 64V and peak charged voltage should be 73V. The individual cells are a 6 Ah which in a a 2P configuration means we have 16 Ah capacity. The pack can put out a continuous 5C which means we can do 80 A no problem. Peak is rated for 15C or 240 A!
The battery pack is taped up with Kapton tape to help prevent any accidental short circuits. It's wired up with the Chargery BMS24T balance cable and temperature sensors.
I'm waiting on some additional screw hardware to fasten up these beefy battery cables before I can test out the pack. These are 2 AWG wire which should be good for up to 210 A according to the manufacturer. The connectors are Anderson SB175 and are good for up to 280 A. One pair of plugs will be for the battery to the contactor and current shunt and the other pair will be for the controller to the other side of the contactor and current shunt. This will allow us to unplug the controller and plug in the charger.
I've also started working on the wiring harness. Here is the start of the switches and LEDs which will live in the control panel. This will have a connector that connects to the main wiring harness and goes back to the controller and BMS main module.
This quick wiring harness and control panel set up is working! I was able to verify that the controller is seeing a switch inputs and also tested out the motor data cable adapter which is showing data from the motor.
I have parts ordered for the battery box and other 3D printed parts such as the display and control panel. I'm still waiting on a couple more fasteners and then we should be just about finished with orders and can start throwing everything together. Hopefully in the next video we will have the motor spinning. Cross your fingers!
The motor is mounted! Big thanks to Matt for helping us out in his shop. We were able to cut out our aluminum panel for the controller mounting and weld up the motor brackets.
The mount is a piece of 2" x 1" rectangle tubing between the seat cross tube and end of the brake caliper bracket. There are two pieces of 1-1/2" angle perpendicular to the tube which we drilled holes to mount the motor plate. Everything feels very sturdy.
We also got the rear panel cut and mounted. Instead of the pipe clamps Matt suggested we use some self-tapping steel screws into the frame. This should work out nicely and I'll later add some rubber washers and trim to the panel to cut down on vibration.
Less interesting but still relevant is a small adapter I made that connects up the motor signal wires (sine, cosine, temp) to the controller. This is a Metri-Pack 150 8-way male pin to DJ7061Y-2.3-21.
The frame mount changes have been added to the CAD drawings and I rearranged some parts for better fit. I'm now thinking that the contactor and BMS will go on the side of the battery box and the throttle POT will go where I originally had the BMS.
I've finalized most of the control panel and ordered parts to start wiring it. But hard to get length of harness without the battery box in place. Still waiting on the batteries!
That's all for now. Stay tuned for battery build and more electrical updates soon!