A few comments on the voltmeters and ammeters. First on the housing. These all come with shells that click into a hole quite easily. This would have made the 3D model simpler but they need more space and I wanted a nice line and symmetry below the DPS3005 so the best way was to create the mounting in the 3D model. In my case the bare voltmeter/ammeter board are a friction fit but you can use a little hot glue if they are not sitting in correctly.
Second thing is accuracy. These are cheap voltmeter/ammeters. In most cases we are just not looking for precision, just a rough value, most of these are accurate to about 0.1V and some can be tweaked with a small potentiometer on the board so look out for that if it is important. Generally it is fine and I don't have to pull out a proper multi-meter.
When connecting to the ammeter it seems strange to connect the thigh red wire to the black binding post but since this is the current coming from the load and the thick black wire is connected to 0V it makes sense. Just follow connections from the load.