About build instructions.

Take the USB fan apart. Write down where each wire is connected too. Next disconnect the controle PCB from the motor. Remove the shinny cap from the fan and remove the plastic fan. Cut off one side with a scissor and put it back. Add some extra weight in the cap to balance the fan again. It should not vibrate much when running. Put the cap back on

3D print the frame and other parts and paint it in the colors you want . (stl's available on request)

I wanted to have a brass/patina look. Although i also made one from copper i wanted to get a patina look on a 3D printed object. For this i made my own paint by mixing very fine copper powder in some clear acrylic paint. I painted the frame with it and after drying i applied a natural patina to it with vinager/salt and ammonia vapor. The result can be seen on one of the images. The frame looks like it have been submersed in seawater for quiet some time. That frame is used a prop for an other time era.

Cut a few wires to the right length so that they can be soldered to the motor and to the control pcb . Solder the wires to the motor, next insert the motor into the frame. Be aware of the right orientation. Feed the wires through the holes and into the space at the front side.

Solder the extended wires to the controle pcb. Close the compartment wih the cover.

Make 6 battery contacts from M3 brass screws and nuts. Solder to 3 of them a cut off balpoint spring to give the battery a little pressure and to keep it in place. Wire the batteries in serie to get 4.5V. While this is a bit on the low side the timepiece will start from about 4.2V. An alternative solution would be to use 2 3.7V lithium bateries in serie and place a DC-DC converter in the third compartment (7.2v to 5V)

Next attach the transparent covers by pressing the pin in to lock these in place.

The leather bracelet is cut and engraved on a laser cutter.