This design can be powered for days with a single cr2032, if using a SAO, I've found that battery life extends to 32 hours but starts to show power drain after 24 mark. Basically, take the battery out at night and it should last the whole of defcon.
To learn more about the circuit: https://lindevs.com/flip-flop-led-flasher-using-bc547-transistors/
1. All components(except for D1, D4) are placed on the front of the badge. Pay attention to the orientation of the components.
2. I would solder the components in the order outlined on the back of the badge. The rule I follow is that the parts that lay closest to the board go down first, you want your flow to be as streamlined and smooth as possible and save the tricky components for later so you can focus on them. For me those tricky components are the transistors and the Sao port, mainly because of their height/shape, I usually need to balance the board with a pen or such to make sure the port can be level against the board.
3. Starting with the resistors, you only need one of each on each of the arm segments of the robot, the extra footprints are in case you mess up/practice.
Resistor direction doesn’t matter.
330 ohm is Orange, Orange, Brown, Gold
10k is Brown, Black, Orange, Gold.
4. The cr2032 battery holder has a flat side, and a curved side - the curved side should face UP toward the robot head, battery slides in over head.
5. The LEDs(through hole) have a flat side to mark polarity. The flat side should face the top of the badge, these LED’s go in the robots eyeholes.
6. The flat end of the transistors should rest flat against the board, bend the pins ahead of time to fit the footprint.
7. Capacitors are similar, they should land flat against the board (where the robot legs are), negative ends face inwards.
8. For the add-on port, if yours has a tab on it, the tab should face up - if you don’t have a tab, orientation won’t matter.
9. For the SMD LEDs on the back, these LEDs have a grey dye in one of the corners. These dye corners will face up and away from the populated section of the board.
10. For the Shitty Add-on - do the resistor and LED first, then the port.
If both LEDs are steady ON, take out the battery and put it back in.
Any other problems please doublecheck orientation and solder joint connections.
Everything on my badges is intentional and some stuff is done differently from other badges. Here are some of my evolving design considerations:
1. Absence of a ground plane.
Most people put ground planes on their designs, not all badges need them. Since my boards tend to be art oriented, I will tell you: There is a BIG difference in color on the solder mask when copper is present under it. My art utilizes negative space so I need the front solder mask to be as dark as possible.
"Why not put it on the back?" you ask; two things - 1. I'm really trying to have all my traces on the back layer so people can follow them (hence the thicker traces also). 2. There aren't enough traces going to ground to have a ground plane make any sense(easier to do as single traces that people can follow).
2. QR code implementation.
I'm pretty sure I've seen this on boards before but the main inspiration for this was in talking with some HHV guys. They were expressing frustration of badge and sao kits being passed out with no instructions or guide on how to build it.. These poor guys were basically flying blind trying to figure out how to help the noobs.
To help them out I decided to go the QR route, easier than putting a full url on a badge. To only obstacles were size vs printing. While the QR code worked with the gerber files on my computer (holding a caliper up to the screen) , it was a real mystery how it would work out on the final board.
Happy to say that the final...Read more »