As always, another sub-project so I can keep working towards my main project. This time I have several ESP-12E and ESP-14 modules, and I want to reprogram them before I solder them into their final workplace. All the adapter boards I have found online are designed for soldering the ESP module into the adapter board. I want to plug the ESP board into a socket, reprogram it, and then remove it ready to be deployed into its target location.
Basically, I 3D printed 3 pieces: a plate to hold the 2 x 11 pin dual-in-line set of pins, a socket to suit the form factor of the ESP modules (including the 6 pins on the end), plus a block to join them so the wiring can be soldered to the in-line strips.
When trying to put a wire into breadboard right next to the adapter, there is not enough room for those pre-made cables with plastic support at the ends. So, I see two possibilities: make the joining block taller [easy] or rotate the ESP block so the ESP is on its side (or end) [harder, but may be more practical in use].
And since another version is on the radar, make the walls of the ESP socket slightly wider at top to allow better jamming in of the ESP module.
3 print the three parts, as shown under Files, and glue them together. Ensure all holes are clean enough to get wire through, say by using a 0.7mm drill bit in a hand-held twisting device.
Insert each of the 11-pin header strips into the base plate, with the short ends being exposed against the supporting block in the middle of the adapter. I heated each pin just enough to melt some solder to each of the short ends, ready for the wire to be soldered next. [Hint: Plug the 2 11-pin headers into a test board to support everything better while doing this step and the next.]
Strip any insulation from the last 2mm of the wire, feed it through the ESP adapter plate and ensure the cleaned end of the wire has some solder sticking to it.
Bend the wire and position it so it lines up with the appropriate pin in the DIL plate, then solder it to its pin. [Hint: thermoplastic melts at a much lower temperature than solder, so keep a heat-sinking grip on the wire so soldering does not melt anything on the ESP plate.] Adjust the wire so it does not touch any adjacent wires. Pull the top end of the wire over the edge of the ESP plate to lock it into place and cut off using side cutters (or similar).
Repeat this until all 22 wires are in place, and not touching any other. To be sure, I checked all connections were isolated using a multimeter.