After being asked about some aspects of the mechanical design and components used a few times, I'd like to address those questions. I have to admit that I'm neither very good at the mechanical design, nor do I have a 3d printer (yet) or a shop where I can do metal work myself. That being said, I was still able to design a reasonably professional looking device and bring it to life with the help of modern prototyping services.
The new 3D printed knob for the rotary encoder.
|ELMA, Stylebox 15 Standard; 2 RU, 42HP (half 19")
|Very expensive for a typical DIY project, although I don't know the exact pricing
|Front and Rear panels
|1.6mm Aluminium PCB with white solder mask and black silk screen
|See next post for details
|Stand-offs are connected to chassis (earth).
However, the circuit is earth referenced via cable (connected to the power connector).
|New Rotary knob
|3d printed (MJF)
|Most pictures were taken with the old temporary knob
|C&K/littlefuse PVA series switches with matching caps
|Different force ratings available
|C&K NE18 series switch
|Can be a pain to design and print a connecting rod if the switch is located far back in the unit.
I just used a thin wood rod and some tiny shaft coupling to connect the rod with the switch. Seems to work just fine.
A 3d printed part would be more professional, no doubt about it
|Red filter for display
|Color filter, Red foil, 0.3mm; random amazon product; glued to the back of the front panel
|Works surprisingly well, however it's obviously not as strong as acrylic glas.
Reminds me of the HP/Agilent 66xx series power supplies (and other products) with the thin foil covering their LCD displays.
Wouldn't like that for commercial use at all ;)
There will be a separate post where I explain the fairly straight forward process of designing the front and rear panels.