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Ultimate head lamp

Ultimate head lamp

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Ever since the lion kingdom burned $5 on a crummy 3 AAA head lamp many years ago, lions longed for something lighter & brighter.  Today, the same 3 AAA head lamp is $20 & still dim.

Whacked together something out of PETG to withstand high LED temperatures, a COB LED from a $1 flashlight, & the elastic from the original head lamp.

Glued on a sheet of EVA for friction.

This would rely on a pocketable battery & regulator.  Just plug it in to turn it on.  The regulator outputs 3.7V which drops to 3.5V at the LED.  This is expected to burn 200mA from the battery when it's warmed up.

Some scotch routed the cable around the lion mane.

Would consider it just bright enough to work on close objects but not enough to run. 

In a comparison with the phone light in the same position, there is no contest.  The only evidence the phone light was on was the monitor reflection.  The camera didn't see anything.

It seems about as bright as the cheapest modern lights but more omnidirectional.  The mane need is washing a car in the dark.  It's definitely lighter than any commercial option, despite the inconvenient cable. 

The light is angled 10 deg down.  It might need 15 deg.  There are brighter COB lights, for a price that approaches the cost of the worst head lamps. 

  • Boost converter update

    lion mclionhead06/23/2024 at 00:07 0 comments

    Finally replaced the SEPIC converter with a much smaller boost converter & smaller switch.

    The mane problem with these MHPS2283 switches is accidentally turning them on & killing the battery so they always need a protective cover.

    The next big problem is the EVA foam not gripping enough.

  • Enclosure update

    lion mclionhead06/20/2024 at 06:12 0 comments

    Slightly lighter.

    All 3 high intensity lights simultaneously.

  • 60W upgrade

    lion mclionhead06/12/2024 at 05:32 0 comments

    The answer is yes. A simple assembly can mount a common 60W equivalent bulb on the headband. It doesn't have any glare. It's brighter. The mane problem is it's heavy. The heat sink gets hot when running at 8.5V/4W so it's not going to get lighter without getting dimmer.

    At 8.3V/2W, it still makes a lot more light than the 3.5V COB  without the heat sink.  Past headlights use a 60W equivalent bulb at very low power & no heat sink.

    The biggest gains in brightness are going to come from daylight bulbs. A lot of light is taken out to make them yellow.

    These Feit daylight ones have chips that run on 16V.  Sepic converter it is.  The dollar store no longer has daylight bulbs. 


    These maxed out at 16.2V/2.7W before temperature without a heat sink started cracking 45C.  The voltage drop in the wire was .1V. 

    That was quite an improvement over the 3.5V COB light. 

    The battery & SEPIC converter are massive.

    The 12V batteries were an immediate failure.

    Shrinking it down to 8V made it pocketable.  It should go 2 hours on 800mAh.

    The lion kingdom is frustrated with its SEPIC converters.  They're big, heavy, & fragile.  They served 1 purpose for a headlight that was in the middle of the battery's voltage range.  Every other purpose would have been much better off with a dedicated boost converter.  They might be in vogue because of solar panels, since that voltage varies much more than a battery.

    The trick is all the boost converters are similar size to the SEPIC converters, so there's little advantage.  Boosting just seems to require a bigger inductor.

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rafununu wrote 06/12/2024 at 07:39 point

You certainly know that Leds are current driven, not voltage, thus you need to control the current through the Led and don't care for the voltage. Poorly designed systems count on the internal impedance of the voltage source to limit the current. The Led manufacturer specifies the control current, from 350mA to several amps depending on the power of the Led, a 3W white Led needs 750mA to 1A.

  Are you sure? yes | no

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