Modular WiFi-Switch

Description

The WiFi switch consists of three PCBs.

Part 1 = Switch and Display
Part 2 = WLAN and Logic Stuff
Part 3 = Power and Powerswitch

As a basis I use a switch from "JUNG":
Frame: "AS 581"
Switch: "AS 506"

The PCBs are compatible with other switches with EU standards like GIRA, Becker ... up to Part 1 since the PCB is different in size, I will test this later.

Unless otherwise noted, everything is CC-by-NC-SA.
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/de/deed.en

Details

The idea !

Commercial solutions are usually not reprogrammable the protocol is not known or difficult to find out, moreover expensive and not expandable for the own branches.

Commercial IoT devices are mostly cloud bound, the data is not in the hands of the Owner but at the Manufacturers this is not good.

Change that builds more IoT with your own servers !!!

Why so many boards?

I want to make the whole thing so that the technology can easily change, expand or optimize without having to make something completely new.

What is planned ?

I am still not sure what still comes, ideas I have some but whether they are afterwards usable I know not yet, z.b. You can install a PIR sensor at the PART1 or a radar module ...

Status for the three PCBs:

PART	Description	Planing / Order / Tested
1	Two Capacitive switches and OLED	Done / Done / Done
2	ESP8266 and I/O	Done / Done / Done
3	85-265V/AC Input, Triac or Relay Out	Done / Done / Done

Files

Power-Part3.sch

Part1 - Power and Switch - V1.0 Schematic

x-kicad-schematic - 1.28 MB - 08/26/2017 at 19:32

Download

Power-Part3.brd

Part1 - Power and Switch - V1.0 Board

x-kicad-pcbnew - 115.40 kB - 08/26/2017 at 19:32

Download

OLED-Touch-Part1.sch

Part1 - Switch and OLED - V1.1 Schematic

x-kicad-schematic - 478.31 kB - 04/26/2017 at 10:19

Download

OLED-Touch-Part1.brd

Part1 - Switch and OLED - V1.1 Board

x-kicad-pcbnew - 111.58 kB - 04/26/2017 at 10:19

Download

WLAN-mC-Part2.sch

Part2 - WLAN - V1.0 Schematic

x-kicad-schematic - 596.49 kB - 03/17/2017 at 09:11

Download

Project Logs

Collapse

It's Works
Sandfrog • 08/17/2017 at 19:25 • 1 comment

A little Update, Part3 is Working i test this in the Next Days, for Different things.
Arived Part3 from Oshpark
Sandfrog • 08/15/2017 at 11:10 • 0 comments
Sorry no update now !!!
Sandfrog • 06/29/2017 at 06:50 • 0 comments

At the Moment, I am not able to continue, no work on Electronics when I am Depressive, but I will finish the Project but if I am capable of it.
The Next draft for Part 3
Sandfrog • 05/30/2017 at 07:25 • 0 comments

It goes on, unfortunately, I'm still waiting for the components and other connectors.
I have tried to rebuild the Board so the Relays or SSRs can be used in the SIP format, in the circuit diagram some types are listed, the board needs to be somewhat modified.
The First draft for Part 3
Sandfrog • 05/09/2017 at 20:37 • 0 comments

The first Design for Part3 with the AMEOF3-3.3LJZ as AC / DC Converter.
I have the Relay so planned that the Switch in many circuits functions.
The Relay must be externally connected, for Multiway Circuits a WLAN switch is sufficient.
Multiway Switching (Wikipedia)
To do:
- Relay circuit
- Ordering and testing the components
Found the Error on the OLED
Sandfrog • 04/26/2017 at 09:53 • 0 comments

A small flaw in the circuit, I update the PCB in the next days.
Mistake on PIN 14/11 I'm not sure why, there are various circuits in the network which are so constructed and functioning
Power Adapter
Sandfrog • 04/24/2017 at 14:35 • 0 comments

I ordered some Voltage Transformers.
From Left to right:
Hi-Link, HLK-PM03, IN: 100-240V 50-60Hz, Out: 3.3V / 1A
MEAN WELL, IRM-03-3.3, IN: 100-240V 47-63Hz, Out: 3.3V / 900mA
AIMTEC, AMEOF3-3.3SLJZ, IN: 85-264V 50-60Hz, Out: 3.3V / 470mA
The one from AIMTEC still needs extra components.
Part1 - Tested - Fail
Sandfrog • 04/23/2017 at 18:11 • 0 comments

Tested not working, the OLED says nothing, the touch Buttons work.
Unfortunately, I currently have not much time for the project but I work on it.
Part1 - PCBs from OSHPark
Sandfrog • 04/21/2017 at 12:00 • 0 comments

I test the PCBs in the next days.
Questions from the Users
Sandfrog • 04/09/2017 at 10:22 • 0 comments

I am currently getting from many users the question how I solve the problem with the neutral conductor, in Germany this is almost always present when laying in hollow walls, and if this is not available, he is very easy to pull from the distributor without opening the wall.

View all 15 project logs

Discussions

oshpark wrote 08/25/2017 at 03:10

Great project!

Are you sure? yes | no

breezecar wrote 04/23/2017 at 09:06

I want to make this kind of project but i need to design the pcb for the wall outlet, you made this pcb with what eda software?

Are you sure? yes | no

Sandfrog wrote 04/23/2017 at 11:19

Whit the Free Version of Eagle >8.0.1

Are you sure? yes | no

xose.perez wrote 04/09/2017 at 19:59

I have been recently working on a very similar project. I decided to go for the HLK-PM01 as @roquestrogo suggests. Along with a SPDT relay everything fits in my house wall gangs.

http://tinkerman.cat/the-espurna-board-a-smart-wall-switch-with-power-monitoring/

Are you sure? yes | no

roquestrongo wrote 04/08/2017 at 01:21

I bulit some stuff for home automation with the ESP for powering I am using the cheap Hi-Link switching power suply with print layout HLK PM 01/03 .... I got that supply together with two Relays and a esp fit on a board that fits iside a german UP wall box. That module is used as a actuator for my window shutters.

Are you sure? yes | no

Chris Yokum wrote 04/07/2017 at 18:47

Your ESP-12F symbol looks like the one with the GPIO4/GPIO5 pins reversed..

Are you sure? yes | no

Sandfrog wrote 04/08/2017 at 09:27

Yes, the software are defined, I use the because I have ever had a mistake since that I always do so.

Are you sure? yes | no

Tom wrote 04/05/2017 at 10:07

it should make more sense to do the power unit for 110V-230V, also a triac or thyristor should do it because then you are able to dim a lamp. Also the 15mm of height are very critical when you use a relay. How you plan to to the supply from 110V-230V? What is the power consumption of the OLED display and the ESPI board?

Are you sure? yes | no

Sandfrog wrote 04/06/2017 at 07:08

I have a little more space than 15mm I'm looking at finished modules for the supply of the smallest have about 16-18mm, or transformers of "HAHN" with a construction height of 12-16mm and 300mA / 5V which also suitably defend.

Dimmen is not planned with me, but the whole is deviated on several boards so that one can easily reconstruct.

The power consumption for the OLED when all the pixels are on is ~ 25mA, the ESP pulls 200mA when sending, I would like to get 300mA of power supply to have spare for extensions.

Are you sure? yes | no

Tom wrote 04/06/2017 at 08:36

Nice. I would do a switch mode power supply with a wide input range from 100 to 250V. 5V and 300mA is not to much :)

Are you sure? yes | no

Chrunchstick wrote 03/17/2017 at 11:35

How do you plan to power this unit? Is a neutral wire in the switch box necessary?

Are you sure? yes | no

Sandfrog wrote 03/17/2017 at 13:05

I plan two different power modules, one for 12V and one for 110V-230V this will need the neutral conductor.

Are you sure? yes | no

Modular WiFi-Switch

Description

Details