I sent the design out to OSHPark, and have received real boards that look pretty good (the slots for the USB connectors didn't work, but everything else looks pretty good.)

Gee, those pads look awfully tiny "In Real Life", compared to how big they looked blown up on my monitor when I was working on them in EAGLE! I'm reviewing tutorials on QFN soldering without fancy equipment, and have practiced with some simpler SMT components and the hotplate that I own; that seemed to go "ok", but I don't really have any "practice" QFN chips (I've got some SSOPs) or boards (though I did find some SO-sized scrap boards...)

And it seems that a toothpick is probably "too big" a tool for applying solder paste...