I see lots of chemistry youtubers doing things that make me cringe these days, and no one even uses proper filtration systems to keep toxic chemicals out of the environment or worse, their lungs.
Well no more of that: This simple open source bubbler is an affordable way that toxic gases and hazardous particulates can be removed, partially or entirely, from a gas stream. For powders simply add surfactants and perhaps ultrasonic agitation, and for gases, simply add something to the liquid that reacts with those gases readily, or a fluid in the column that absorbs them. Keep in mind chemical and plastic compatibility charts, and use at your own risk, but hopefully this helps make the world a safer and cleaner place.
This work is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International
Details
Files
Bubbler Lid Rim.stl
Bottom part of the lid for the bubbler. This rim is sealed to the pipe to create a mounting point for the lid's top.
Standard Tesselated Geometry -
295.39 kB -
05/15/2025 at 20:01
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Printing Filament
Filament used to print the parts for the bubbler. PETG is recommended for its chemical resistance, but you may want a different plastic based on the chemicals being used.
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3" PETG Tubing
3" outer diameter, 2 3/4 inner diameter, approximately 18" tall. Can be purchased at https://www.mcmaster.com/9245K59/
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Aquarium Grade Silicone
Used to seal the bubbler, aquarium grade is recommended to reduce the chance of anything leaching into the solution
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Draw Latch
Screw on, 304 Stainless Steel, 1-3/4" Long x 7/8" Wide. Can be ordered from McMaster at https://www.mcmaster.com/6082A12/
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3" O-ring
3" ID, 3-1/8" OD, 1/16" Width. Can be ordered at https://a.co/d/3txb7B3
Print the files provided for the base and lid of the bubbler. High resolution is not required, but we recommend printing at 100% infill to help prevent leaks. PETG is a great filament to use based on its chemical resistance, but check the compatibility of each type of plastic with the specific compounds you will be working with before printing.
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Assemble and Seal the Water Column
Cut the 3" pipe to length, approximately 18". This can be made taller if you want a higher water column for your reaction. The printed base will slide onto one side of the tube, and the lid rim will slide onto the other.
Before assembling the water column, apply a thin layer of silicone to the entirety of the inside of the pieces. This will help seal the plastic, as the 3D prints will not be sufficiently watertight on their own.
Once the layer of silicone is applied, run a thick bead to rim of each print, where the edge of the pipe will sit. Due to the length of the pipe, it will be difficult to apply additional silicone to the base once the pipe is set in, so you want to make sure there is enough to completely seal the base.
The lid of the top for the water column should also be sealed on the inside area. Once that is done, allow the silicone to cure and then fill the water column and let it sit to check for leaks.
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Insert O-Ring
The O-ring will be put around the lid's rim, on the small lip the top will sit on. The O-ring should fit snugly, and will sit between the two printed pieces.