I don’t like breadboards, for those who didn’t notice. So I developed an alternative.

Most of my projects are Arduino based. The reason for this is that there is a wide variety of modules available that can be effortlessly connected to an Arduino. This suddenly makes it very easy to design and build your own electronics. However, this electronics still needs to be tested.

Magnetic mounts

Almost all electronic modules have M3 mounting holes. That makes it very easy to screw magnets under these modules and place them on a whiteboard. Having a whiteboard means that you can draw the required connections first, before connecting them. Having magnets, will fix the modules, so that they will stay in place. You can even use the whiteboard to store alle the modules and put it away vertically.

Connection method 1

Screw terminals are a great way to connect modules. The pin connectors are removerd and replaced by standard 2.54mm pitch screw terminals. Standard male-to-male DuPont cables can be used to connect two screw terminals. A red cable is always +5 volt and a black cable the ground; this color coding avoids mistakes. The cables can be left attached to the modules, this store them and reduces setup time.

Connection method 2 (alternative)

Instead of screw teminals, 90° Pin headers in combination with emale-Male DuPont cables can be used. 

Probably cheaper, but the cables can be easily pulled out. Both methods are shown below.

What not to use

Two things must be avoided. Using modules with no mounting holes, because no magnets can be used. A second thing is that straight pin connectors must not be used. They will guide the wires straight up in the air; but the Arduino is certainly not there.

Storage

Since all modules are magnetic, vertical storage is no problem. Because whiteboards are used, the scematic can be drawn (and checked!) prior to connecting the modules. This is a big advantage!

Modules with small holes

Some modules have M2 holes instead of M3 holes. Mounting the magnets on modules with M2 holes, can be solved in a simple way. M2 Male-Female standoffs are mounted on the module. Than M3 Female-Female 10mm standoffs are used to mount the magnets. When the M3 standoffs are drilled  5mm deep with a 3.2mm drill, the M2 standoffs can be pressfitted. Locktite can be used when necessary. This is shown in the picture below.

Arduino Nano module

Making the Nano module is very straight forward.The pictures speak for them selves. Power for the red and black power terminals is taken from the underside of the Nano terminal board. Two wires are used to feed the terminals. The colors Black and Red are reserved for the Ground and +5V power and not used for anything else. In all other cases red is replaced with brown.

The Nano module with the power cable and logic probe.

The side view of the Nano module

Bottom view of the Nano module

Switch Modules

Modules with switches are hardly for sale and those that are for sale are of poor quality. This makes it necessary to assemble these modules from separate components. The base is formed by an L-profile of 50*20mm. Holes are drilled in this profile for the switches, the mounting of the print and the magnetic feet. The crew terminals are then connected to the switches, as shown on the pictures. The LED module is made in a similar way.

Top view of the switch and LED modules. 

Bottom view of the modules

Finally

All materials are standard materials, no custom stuff is used. Hand tools are sufficient to make and assemble. The system can easily be extended; adding new modules can be done without any problems.

I am using this system for use in a makerspace for children. So pinout pictures for all modules are made available and I also added some custom modules for the use of switches and LED’s. Arduino Nano’s are used, and they are punt on a perfboard so that power terminals and plugs can be easily added.

And there you...