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DIY Soldering Fume Extractor

Battery-powered solder fume extractor with 3D-printed housing, speed control, carbon filter, and flexible Loc-Line mount.

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I built a small, battery-powered fume extractor to use while soldering. It uses a 120mm PC fan pulling air through an activated carbon filter, powered by a 12V Li-ion battery pack. A simple off-the-shelf fan controller with a linear pot lets me adjust the speed, and there's a momentary switch to check battery level with an LED indicator. The fan and electronics are mounted in 3D-printed parts, and the whole thing connects to a flexible ¾" Loc-Line arm so I can position it wherever I need while keeping the wire out of the way.

I recently decided to try to get into simple electronics work, and dabble some with microcontrollers. After finishing a few early practice projects I decided I needed a way to deal with the soldering fumes before I wanted to embark on anything larger. I decided it would be an interesting mini-project to build one myself, and this is what I came up with.

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Fume Extractor - Fan Case.step

step - 187.05 kB - 06/15/2025 at 03:39

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Fume Extractor - Base Case.step

step - 86.85 kB - 06/15/2025 at 03:39

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  • 1 × 120mm PC Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG2PGY6
  • 1 × 4-Wire Fan Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHNC776L
  • 1 × Activated Carbon Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RNGMXYG
  • 1 × 12V Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D9D5L3B5
  • 1 × 12V Battery Status Indicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T5RBF5V

  • 1
    Print Plastic Parts

    I used black PETG, 2 walls, and 15% infill for all parts.  The top/fan case requires supports for the LocLine connector. The bottom case may, depending on how well your printer can handle short overhangs. The lids shouldn't need supports.

  • 2
    The Top Assembly

    Route the cord for the fan down through the LocLine connector before sliding the fan into its slot. I used the screws that came with the fan to fix it to the case. 

    The filter can then be placed on top of the fan, and held in by the back panel, which is just a friction fit.

    Separate a length of LocLine that leaves some extra on the cord sticking out the bottom - I went with 8 segments - slide it along the cord and snap it onto the top.

  • 3
    Wiring

    The wiring is relatively simple - the battery's positive should head to both the momentary switch and the fan controller in parallel. The other terminal of the momentary switch should be wired to the positive terminal on the battery status indicator. The battery's negative should be wired to the negative terminal on the battery status indicator and the fan controller in parallel. 

    The fan controller is attached to the case with the washer and nut for the potentiometer. The battery indicator I used a couple short m2.5 bolts for, while the momentary switch is simply hot-glued in place after testing that everything works.

    The battery should fit comfortably in the remaining space. The momentary switch should enable the battery status readout while held down. I would recommend testing the fan controller as well before hot-gluing the switch in place.

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