-
1Get components ready
To begin, you need to order the manufacturing of the printed circuit boards. The top cover is essentially also a PCB — just without copper but with silkscreen. I personally used the JLCPCB service. Use the following Gerber files: Gerber_Programmer_Logic_Tester_PCB.zip and Gerber_Programmer_Logic_Tester-Front_Panel.zip.
![]()
![]()
-
2More components
You’ll also need SMD components in 0805 size, as well as several electrolytic capacitors. Check BOM_Programmer_Logic_Tester-new_2025-10-01.csv file. Pay attention to the rotary switches — one of them is a 2-pole 3-position, and the other is a 2-pole 4-position switch. The switch model is SR16 Plastic 16mm. On the top part of the switches, there’s a small protruding pin — it needs to be cut off, otherwise the programmer’s top cover will not close properly.
![]()
-
3Soldering
Once the PCBs arrive, you can start soldering. Begin with surface-mount components (resistors, ceramic capacitors, and diodes). Then proceed with the transistors, the MT3608 module, 595 shift registers, Arduino Nano, and ZIF sockets — in that order.
Note that the connector for external power is optional. Although the designer of the programmer included it, I never found it necessary to use.
To solder the MT3608 module, use standard pin headers. This way, the module will sit about 2 mm above the main board, and the adjustment trimmer will align with the hole in the case — convenient if you ever need to fine-tune the voltage.
![]()
![]()
-
4Programming Arduino and Voltage adjustment
Next, you need to flash the firmware onto the Arduino. Use the file sketch.zip and the official Arduino IDE software.
Most importantly, after connecting power, adjust the output voltage of the MT3608 module. Measure the voltage on the module’s output pins with a multimeter and turn the trimmer until you get 12.2 V. Although some ROMs require 14 V for programming and erasing, I never encountered any issues — 12.2 V always worked perfectly.
-
53D printing
Now for the 3D printing. I used my Flying Bear Ghost 6 printer. 3D model files: Programmer_logic_tester_Bottom.stl and Programmer_logic_tester_Shell.stl. If needed, there’s also a Fusion 360 source file — Programmer_logic_tester.f3d. Don’t forget to enable supports in your slicer settings to prevent the model from deforming during printing.
![]()
![]()
![]()
-
6Assemble
After printing, you can assemble everything and fasten it with four M2.5 × 20 mm bolts. I bought my set on AliExpress
![]()
![]()
![]()
-
7Using the program
To learn how to use the PC software file programmer_tester.zip, watch the video tutorial made by the programmer’s author.
Volodymyr










Discussions
Become a Hackaday.io Member
Create an account to leave a comment. Already have an account? Log In.