• The PCB assembly process starts by adding solder mask to each SMD component pad; we used a dispensing syringe filled with Sn-PB 63-37 solder mask.
• Next, we pick all the SMD components using ESD tweezers and place them in their correct location.
• The whole circuit is then placed on the reflow hotplate, which heats the PCB from below, and as the temperature gradually rises to about 200°C, the solder paste melts and securely holds every component in place.

Below is the code we prepared for this project, and it's a simple one; we have used FastLED library-based code.

#include <FastLED.h>
#define NUM_LEDS 1
#define DATA_PIN 0
CRGB leds[NUM_LEDS];
void setup() {
FastLED.addLeds<WS2811, DATA_PIN, GRB>(leds, NUM_LEDS);
FastLED.setBrightness(255);
}
void loop() {
leds[0] = CRGB::White;   // R+G+B
FastLED.show();
delay(2000);
leds[0] = CRGB::Yellow;  // R+G (no blue)
FastLED.show();
delay(2000);
leds[0] = CRGB::Red;     // only R
FastLED.show();
delay(2000);
leds[0] = CRGB::Black;   // off
FastLED.show();
delay(2000);
}

• We begin the body and circuit assembly by soldering the connecting wires to the circuit’s VCC, GND, DIN, and DOUT terminals.
• Next, we applied double-sided thermal tape to the back of the circuit and press-fit the circuit into the center section of the main body.
• All the wires attached to the circuit are routed through the four openings provided in the middle area. These openings allow the wires to pass from the front side to the back side, where they will later be connected to the aluminum terminals.

• We trimmed the excess length of each connecting wire, stripped the ends, and passed them through the screw hole in the aluminum sheet.
• Next, we wrapped the wire around the screw, positioned the aluminum sheet over its mounting spot, and tightened the screw. This creates pressure on the wire, forming a solid electrical connection and effectively turning the entire aluminum sheet piece into a large terminal.
• We repeated the same process for the remaining three terminals.

Before moving to the final epoxy process, we first verified that the setup was working correctly. We used some magnetic holders we had lying around—these are normally used to screw something onto them and then attach the holder to any metal surface.

Since we used aluminum sheets for the terminals, and aluminum is not magnetic, you might wonder how we planned to make a connection.

The answer is simple: the screws we used are made of iron, and the magnetic holders stick to them perfectly.

We connected wires to the magnetic holders and paired them with the power lines from our XIAO board: 5V to VCC, GND to GND, and DIN to GPIO0. The circuit worked properly, confirming that everything was connected correctly.

With the functionality verified, we could now move on to the final step.

To encase the electronics, our plan was to use clear epoxy, and for this we purchased a 2:1 epoxy kit. Inside the circular section of the body, we had four holes for wire routing. If we poured epoxy directly, it would simply leak out of these openings, so we sealed them with hot glue first.

After preparing the enclosure, we mixed the epoxy in the required 2:1 ratio and poured the entire mixture into the middle cavity. We let it cure for about 12 hours, and once hardened, it formed a solid, glass-like protective layer that not only looks great but also encapsulates all the electronics—just like the epoxy-filled 5050 package of a real WS2812B LED.

With this, the assembly process was officially completed.

Here’s the end result of this simple yet massive build, a fully working, scaled-up WS2812B LED.

Just like its original counterpart, this giant version functions exactly the same, only at a much larger size. For testing, we paired it with a XIAO SAMD21 MCU to drive the LED, but in reality, any microcontroller can be used.

What makes this exciting is that we can even build multiple XL versions of this LED and chain them together using the DIN and DOUT pins, allowing us to control them just like a strip of normal addressable LEDs.

The possibilities for projects using this giant LED are endless. One idea I’ve been wanting to try is creating a wall-sized RGB matrix using multiple units, which I hope to build in the coming months.

This Giant WS2812B project marks the third and most refined version of an idea I’ve experimented with multiple times. The first version used just three 5050 LEDs directly driven by a WS2811 IC—simple, but far too underpowered without MOSFETs. The second attempt also skipped MOSFETs, and, to make things worse, I used yellow epoxy that completely ruined the look of the build.

This latest version finally brings everything together: a fully scaled-up model, high-brightness LEDs powered through MOSFETs, a far cleaner and more reliable circuit, and a clear epoxy finish that makes it look like a true oversized WS2812B.

Overall, this project was a fun challenge and a huge improvement over the previous attempts. With this foundation, I’m excited to explore even bigger ideas—maybe even an entire wall-sized RGB matrix in the future.

Huge thanks to JLCCNC for supporting this project. They offer CNC machining, milling, and custom mechanical fabrication with fast turnaround and consistent quality. If you’re working on enclosures, brackets, or any precision parts, definitely check out JLCCNC’s services!

Stay tuned for the upcoming update.

Thanks for reaching this far, and I will be back with a new project pretty soon.

Peace.