Gerber files, updated silkscreen
Zip Archive - 201.80 kB - 06/11/2017 at 10:01
Adobe Portable Document Format - 61.33 kB - 05/07/2017 at 12:09
I made a short demo video how I use the controller to interact with my smartHome. It was a bit difficult to get the right exposure on the OLED display, but I think it is readable.
I also received ~12€ from the "Hackaday Prize Seed Funding" a few days ago. A big thanks to Hackaday and the Hackaday community. I used the money to buy Andrew "bunnie" Huangs new book "The Hardware Hacker".
I soldered the PCB and assembled all the parts. I still need to cut the screws to the right length, but apart from that the hardware is finished. The PCB is functional, but there are some things I would change next time. For instance:
I will make an example code, which shows how to use the buttons and control the LEDs. The code should be on github in a week or so.
PS: If someone near to Austria wants a PCB, drop me a line, I don't need all of them.
The PCBs arrived yesterday, 16 days after ordering them. Impressive.
Unfortunately I am not in my apartment until sunday evening. Maybe I have enough time to solder the board next week.
I have added a diode to every button. Now I can detect more than 2 simultaneous button presses.
The circuit works pretty well on the breadboard. The multiplexed LEDs are flickering, but I think I can fix this in software.
I also ordered the PCB today, it should be here in a month or so.
The PCB-Mill still needs some software tweaks, so I may get them manufactured at a PCB house and try the mill at my next project.
Meanwhile I started writing a test program. For testing I use a NodeMCU board. I use this nice library by squix to communicate with the OLED.
Today I printed the buttons for the controller. The surface finish isn't that beautiful, but they fit nicely into the top acrylic plate.
I have access to a small CNC-Milling machine. Therefore I designed an 1-layer board with relative thick traces 0.4mm (15.75 mils). I wasn't able to route everything on the top layer, so I have to use some jumper wires for the bottom layer.
The controller is made out of 2mm laser cut Acrylic plates. The parts are held together with M3 and M2.5 screws and nuts.