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Mini TV-B-Gone

Remix of the TV-B-Gone sold by Adafruit, originally made by Mitch Altman

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The TV-B-Gone kit from Adafruit is a favorite around the LVL1 hackerspace for teaching noobs how to solder. This remix is based on the schematic and code available from Adafruit, but has been redone in a smaller form factor and entirely with surface mount components to teach advanced soldering.

Revision 2 resources are available from the download link as a TGZ file. More details and documentation will be posted after fixing a few issues with the current revision. Prototype boards shown in the image were ordered from OSHPark (1.11 x 1.56 inches, $8.65 per three), and all other components are available from DigiKey (Gerber files and full BOM available in the aforementioned TGZ file). Firmware is the same as that available for download from Adafruit, with minor adjustments to the Makefile to be compatible with my programmer. Possible future improvements include a 3D-printed enclosure (it is easy to create a short between the batteries), and a rechargeable LiPo battery.

  • Successful Workshops!

    The Hat01/16/2015 at 04:44 0 comments

    Hosted 3 sessions of surface mount fun at the LVL1 hackerspace just before the holidays. We had about 15 people assemble TV disabling devices and learn (or practice) their soldering skills. I'm posting a new link for revision 3 of the design, which will be the final revision for now. I still haven't written up assembly instructions, but I hope to get that done soon. If you can read reference designators and a bill of materials, you should still be able to figure it out ;-).

  • MakerFaire Detroit

    The Hat08/19/2014 at 00:58 0 comments

    The prototypes pictured in the first project photo were displayed at MakerFaire Detroit, with positive comments. All three prototypes were assembled by hand-soldering with an iron. The SOIC-8 footprint was too narrow for the selected chip. Care must be taken to avoid soldering to the cap of the crystal. The next revision will have larger pads for the crystal to help mitigate this. The cathode marks on D2 and D3 are difficult to see, so should be made more visible (they are in the same orientation as D1 and D4). U2 is definitely easier to solder if populated before C1. As with all plastic switches, care must be taken to solder S1 without melting the plastic components. D5 (which is current limited by R3) is too bright, and can make discrete use of the device difficult.

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