THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE OBSOLETE!
PLEASE SEE http://l-star.org FOR UPDATED INSTRUCTIONS
These are the parts you need for the L-Star Plus Rev.2:
- (1) Western Design Center W65C02S and 40-pin DIP socket. Other 65C02 variations are currently not supported (the WDC 65C02 has a slightly different pinout compared to other 65C02 variants!)
- (1) Parallax P832A Propeller and 40-pin DIP socket
- (1) Alliance AS6C1008-55PCN SRAM chip and 32-pin DIP socket
- (1) 24LC512 I2C EEPROM (Microchip or other brand)
- (1) LM1086-5V (TI/National or other brand)
- (1) LM1086-3.3V (TI/National or other brand)
- (1) Single-pole sliding switch (power switch)
- (2) Pushbuttons, normally open (reset buttons)
- (1) Yellow RCA socket for monochrome video out
- (1) 6-pin mini-din socket for PS/2 keyboard
- (1) 2.5mm barrel socket for power
- (1) 2x20 pin header for expanion port
- (1) 35+2+2 pins of breakaway header for jumper block and reset headers
- (1) 4 pin 90 degree header for Prop Plug
- (5) jumpers
- (5) 100nF capacitors for decoupling
- (1) 470pF capacitor for filter on the video output
- (3) 100 Ohm resistors
- (5) 3300 Ohm resistors
- (6) 10KiloOhm resistors
- (1) LED (power on)
- (3) 47uF Electrolytic capacitors
- (1) Crystal 5MHz
- (1) Circuit board
All integrated circuits are CMOS based, so you should take the usual precautions about static discharge.
The first thing you solder onto the board should be the socket for the power. The reason to solder this first is that the solder islands partially overlap with the footprints of other components. If you would put the other components in first and then solder the power socket, you might overheat the other components, or they might get in the way.
Next, solder the electrolytic capacitors. Watch the polarity! They're all the same value and they all point in the same direction: the negative side is towards the memory chip, and the positive side is towards the voltage regulators.
The five 100nF decoupling capacitors are next. It's easier to get to them now, before the sockets are going to be in the way. Don't mix the 100nF capacitors with the 470pF capacitor! When I sell the project as a kit, I'll try to make sure to label them clearly, somehow.
The 470pF capacitor is part of the video output circuit. It's on the right in the picture. It's probably not needed if you use a CRT monitor, so if you made a mistake and now you don't have a 470pF capacitor, it's no need to panic.
Here's another picture of the 470pF capacitor from another angle. If you click on the picture you might see that it says "471" instead of "104". Or maybe not. Oh well.
Now things become tedious: Time to solder the four IC sockets. Start by soldering two opposite corners, then make sure the socket is flat on the PCB. If not, resolder. Then solder all the other pins.
The tediousness continues: solder the 2x20 pin expansion header. If you aren't planning on using it, skip it. Everything else will still work. And at the time of this writing, there aren't any expansion boards yet, either.
Now solder the other headers: Make sure the Prop Plug header is as parallel to the board as possible.
The jumper block is 7 by 5 pins and the headers next to the reset switches are two pins each. If you have larger breakaway headers, you'll have to cut them with some side cutters. You may want to plan ahead a little, so that you won't end up with a single-pin header to cut off. For example, if you have two 20pin headers (which is what you'll get if you use the Mouser part list), you'll probably want to cut them in pieces of 5 pins, not 7 pins. When I make the final kit, I'll probably provide pre-cut headers.
Now solder the two reset switches.