aalvesIt's been a while since I've worked on this, but I'll still update this on my progress. I have most of the device working for version 1.1 with the Teensy 3.1. The extra processing powere means there is no noticable delay when the ideal hum repeates. It is assembled and there is good detection of swings and clashes, the lighted momentary switch is rigged up and the code is working. Essentially what is left is more documentation, adding the audio amp, and the LED current supplies. I ordered a hilt from Adaptive Saber Parts, once that arrives I'll have a better idea of how much room I have and renewed interest.
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Soo after talking to a electrical engineer friend and some luck i think i found a solution that works for the buck. MY friend was saying why not just switch out the current sensing resistor. So i looked on mouser found a 1/4w 1 ohm http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SR732ATTD1R00Fvirtualkey66000000virtualkey660-SR732ATTE1R00Fto replace the .3 ohm 1/8w one they had. And on top of that a little luck found my way to oshpark they had a 4 channel board https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/cMroyCWV that just needs parts for like 6.50 free shipping about 12.85 +shipping from mouser and 6.50 for the board and you have a 1A 4ch picobuck. Save a couple bucks on the board and have it in one package 2 layer board of 1.21x1.08 inches (30.68x27.51 mm) Watcha think?
Edited i had the wrong resistor looked up the hookup guide and it had the proper values to up it to 1A
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My friend was reminding me that the cat1401 would run a lot hotter and waste more power than the picobuck..bonus!
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For some reason I just saw this. Yeah the oshpark board was pretty much what I was planning on doing, essentially adding another channel to the sparkfun board. Yeah picobucks are usually more efficient, but they do require large inductors to get them to work. Hopefully your project is going well, I haven't had a chance to work more on mine yet.
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So i set up a trello page if your interested. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.
https://trello.com/b/1MbM08rb/long-hilt-teensy-lightsaber-project
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That's why I decided to post the code, it's far from complete (and some of it hasn't been tested) but I though it would at least be a good jumping off point for someone. That was one of the chips that I was looking into for driving the LED's. The CAT4101 was a chip that I was looking at, the next revision I do I'm going to fab a PCB for it. I was considering to use
http://datasheet.octopart.com/ZXLD1366ET5TA-Zetex-datasheet-5342352.pdf
or essentially make a 4 channel PicoBuck. The nice thing about the CAT4101 is that it doesn't require a inductor, but it's a much larger package so I'm unsure which one would be smaller in the end. There are surprisingly few options for chips that are able to run at these currents. Let me know if you have any questions I'm more then happy to bounce ideas off each other.
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awesome :) will do, the one good thing on my project is i wanted a long hilt saber so i should have upwards of 7 to 8 inches for the boards and batts. I'll definately keep in touch.
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So apparently i'm blind, got the code. Thanks for your hard work! If your interested i am setting up a trello on my lightsaber when i make it viewable i'll link it if your interested.
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I am doing my own teensy lightsaber project using 3.2 +the audio adapter. When i saw your project it gave me the info i needed on the imu and the amp, and i was gonna go with the picobuck but running my led's at 350ma just wasn't enough. I found this http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/CAT4101-D.PDF gonna make a board with 4ch's at 1A each probably running normally at 700ma. Your project really helped me plan out the core electronics i needed.
To my point i am a complete noob in programming and i am currently in the learning process. I noticed you had a working sketch. Any chance i could get a copy? Would like to go through it and learn/borrow from it if you don't mind. Would be willing to share/swap at a later date let you see what i come up with.
Thanks!
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