The off the shelve HAKKO controller from Ebay comes shrink wrapped with display and buttons integrated on the PCB. To make it more useable and have everything integrated into a nice case, I first desoldered the display such that I can put it on the front panel of the case.

The DC/DC boost converter is a 150W version which is a good safety margin. I regulated the output to 22V as the manufacturer of the HAKKO controller suggest anything between 19V and 24V ...

While at my FabLab, I used the laser cutter to make a custom box with 3mm MDF. I use the following website to quickly prototype boxes :

http://www.makercase.com/

Then you can add the necessary holes with your favorite CAD program.

Here you can see the board with the 7 segment LED display removed. I used some ribbon cable to make extensions for making the connections to the LED display and additional buttons on the front panel.

Front panel is mounted with buttons and LED display and some hot glue ;-). I also added an extra heat sink for the MOSFET on the board. The buttons are just // connections to the four existing buttons on the PCB.

The front looks cleaner than the inside ;-)

It's time to do the back panel ! I provided several options for powering by putting a standard DC plug, banana plugs and additional an XT60 plug for powering with a LIPO battery (which I have plenty for model flying).

Since it is possible to reverse polarity when using the banana plugs, I decided to add polarity protection. I only had a 90A power schottky diode laying around which is a bit of an overkill ;-)

The 20V output from the DC booster is directly soldered onto the PCB of the controller.

Almost final before closing everything up ...

Time for testing ! As you can see in the video, even powered with a 3S or 4S LIPO, it is heating up quite fast ;-)