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11Step 11
We need:
1 x HC-05 bluetooth module
1 x NRF24L01 radio module
In this step we will prepare the bluetooth and the radio module. We will have to remove the pin headers to solder wire directly, thus reducing the total volume of the modules. We will be using flat cable from an old PC, because we won’t have much space for cables.
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12Step 12
We need:
- 1 x NRF24L02 radio module (step 11)
Now we are going to stick the radio module to it’s final position. Due to the lack of space and the need to reduce weight, we decided to simple stick the module with some hot melt glue. We have to be sure that the module doesn’t make contact with the moving part in the center. The cables go to the other side of the module.
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13Step 13
We need:
- 1 x Part 009-1 (step 10)
Using 3 screws, we mount the motor-equipped part 009-1 to the body of the module. Ensure that the servo cables don’t contact the coupling mechanism.
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14Step 14
We need:
- 1 x Part 005-1 (step 10)
In this step we will mount the “base” of the robot, the part 005-1, with the previously mounted motor. Now it’s when we realize that the size of the cables connected to the radio module (step 11) it’s very important, because they have to fit between the “base” servomotor and the top part. We need 4 screws for this step.
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15Step 15
We need:
- 1 x LM317 Voltage Regulator
- 1 x 1200 Ohm Resistor
- 1 x 330 Ohm Resistor
Now we will configure our voltage regulator. Since we basically need the regulator for powering the servomotors, and since they can operate between 5 and 6 volts, we will set the regulator to the closer to 6 volts we can. We can use any other voltage regulator we want, considering the minimum current needs.
The LM317 Voltage regulator allows us to adjust the output voltage using some resistors. You can find the details and the math in its datasheet, widely available. Refer to the datasheet to be sure of the connections. The resistors that we choose were 330 and 1200 Ohms, resulting 5.8 volts. We can also use 100 and 390 Ohms, resulting in 6.1 volts. Check the schematics.
We need to power 5 servomotors with the output voltage from the regulator, so we need a small board to solder up the regulator, the resistors and the cables. The dimensions of the board shouldn’t exceed 1*2.2cm, and it should fit in the module as in the next pictures.
If we check the schematics of the module, we can see that we can use the board to connect the cables that come from the batteries(switch), and the ones that connect to the Arduino.
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16Step 16
We need:
- 1 x Mini Switch
Now we are going to put a little switch to power on/off the entire module. Check the schematics. For now we will leave the switch hanging around, we will return to it later.
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17Step 17
We need:
- 1 x Arduino Nano v3.0
The Arduino Nano is the brain of our module, our robot. It is very important we test our Arduino before we proceed to do the following steps. Sometimes we buy not official Arduino Boards, so we have to ensure that we can program them.
In this step we will test the Arduino Board and the connection with the computer. We will program an example program, blink. Once tested, note that, in order to save some valuable space, we will need a pins-free board.
We can now put our Arduino Nano into the module.
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18Step 18
We need:
- 1 x HC-05 Bluetooth module (step 11)
Now we are going to solder all the cables directly to the arduino. We will follow the schematics and we will try to keep the cables as short as possible. This is a tricky part, so you have to think how to put the cables to reduce length, to allow all the components to fit and to allow the coupling mechanisms to work. Check the schematics.
As you can see in the pictures, the bluetooth module is “floating”. Since it’s on top of the arduino, and we have to ensure that we can access the Arduino, we will cut the cables long enough. We’ve also used auxiliary boards to solder some cables together (grounds, etc…) , for a better cable organization.
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19Step 19
We need:
- 1 x WS2812 RGB LED
- 1 x Part 007-1 (step 10)
In this step we will be mounting the fancy RGB LED of the robot. We will have to cut the LED support to adapt it to the mounted LED. The cables should go as in the picture (Note that the servo in this picture has no cables, we ran out of working ones).
Now it’s time to fix the printed part to the module body, using 2 screws. As you can see in the picture, the mini switch it’s just under the servo we just assembled. We have to stick the mini switch in a position that, when pressed, it doesn’t protrude from the module.
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20Step 20
We need:
- 1 x Part 003-1
- 1 x Part 006-1
- 1 x Part 008-1
- 1 x Part 010-1
- 2 x Li-Po Batteries
Just as we did in step 6, we are going to assemble the part 003-1 to the other half of the module. We have to make sure that it rotates nice and easy.
Now that we have the module almost assembled, we have to think where do we want to put the batteries. The module is designed to host the batteries in the male part, at the back of the arduino, but since we are not using the empty space in the female part, we are going to put the batteries in the female half. This way we get a better weight distribution.
First of all we need to put through the cables that will power up the system:
Then we have to mount Parts 006-1 and 008-1, just as we did in the other half. Once we have done this, we can proceed to insert the batteries. We are going to stick them like in the picture.
We can now mount the Part 010-1.
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Thermoglue is very bad for magnets. It is possible to damage magnetic properties.
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Ya know, I thought you were crazy. I haven't worked much with magnets. But after researching on K & J Magnetics, you are right! N52 will start to demagnetize at just 176F (80C)! GREAT to know! Thanks for posting! I learned something today! :)
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what is the purpose of this rubber band? just curious. I would be nice to have a video showing tht lock working. thanks
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