When I first tried to use the AEMLIC board, I did not have a small enough solar cell (less than 5V DC). I thought that maybe I could do a quick partial test by attaching (1) the 250F Lithium-Ion Capacitor (LIC) to the STO pin and to one of the four GND pins, and (2) an LED to the VHV (2.2V) pin and to one of the other GND pins. Nothing happened, even though the LIC was pre-charged with sufficient voltage.

I did not know that I really did need to have a solar cell connected, essential to provide what the documentation calls "ultra low power startup". When a sufficiently bright light (from the sun or indoor lights) shines on the solar cell, the board will turn ON and will start charging the Lithium-Ion Capacitor (LIC). Once the board is ON, it can decide whether or not it can reliably power the 2.2V (VHV) and/or 3.3V (LOAD) pins.

As an initial test of the board, assuming that the two five-pin headers are correctly soldered to the board, do the following. This is the order that I have used:
- attach a LIC to STO and GND (for my initial test, I pre-charged the LIC to above 3.0V using a power supply; Do not charge above 3.8V)
- attach a yellow, orange, or red LED to VHV and GND (I understand that green, blue and white LEDs may require more than 2.2V?)
- attach a solar cell that you are sure will produce less than 5V (In his kit, Jasper provides a 2V cell; Too much voltage can destroy the board.)

I am not sure if it was OK to pre-charge the LIC using a power supply. Anyone care to comment on this?

Position the solar cell so it points toward the Sun or a bright-enough artificial light. It requires a minimum of 380mV to provide the "ultra low power startup" power needed to start the AEMLIC board.

On retrospect, it would have been best to buy the kit at Tindie, rather than just the AEMLIC board itslef. Unfortunately I did not see it in the list of items for sale. So I did not have a usable solar cell at the beginning.

Once again, this has been a great learning opportunity.