The problem lies in the lack of response, over time the little pads inside become corroded and unresponsive. Eventually, no amount of cleaning and disassembling actually fixes this and you end up replacing either the entire controller or purchasing one...
PVC Cooling Jacket for CO2 Laser0PVC Cooling Jacket for CO2 LaserThe adventure begins while I was walking around the local home depot looking at ideas on how to build the laser. I was sort of making it up as I went. Mapping things out in my mind. I wanted...
Assembling the tube1And now for assembling the laser tube itself. Things needed for this will be a bit of JB weld, a long thin dowl that fits inside your mirror mounts. This will help align them, much better than eyeing it. You will also need some 3/8th...
NaCl Window0NaCl Window and and Mirror – DIY OCWell, I decided to give this a try for the OC of the CO2 laser. A simple gold mirror with a hole in the middle and a salt window. The hole was easy, I simply put a glass drill bit into a battery powered...
Gather parts to build a system for your intended purpose:Research your system board & processor & be double or more sure it is supported. Number of PCIe, PCI should reflect what you want to run. Internal serial HEADER is preferable over DB9 on...
At this point you have an assembled system, VT-d capable CPU & Board, 8+ GB RAM, 2+ ATI GPU's of at least HD5xxx, bootable storage for ESXi and storage for VM's, can boot the ESXi installer from cd/usb/iso, and a supported nic. Get ESXi installation...
Step 1 - Assemble the fittingsLet's get the easy part out of the way first. For this step, you'll need your bag of fittings, the valves, the pressure gauge, a roll of teflon tape, and a crescent wrench.Assembling brass fittings is pretty easy, but...
Step 2: Prepare the pressure cookerNow for the fun part. In this step, you'll be drilling a hole in your nice shiny new pressure cooker. I know, it's tough, but it's for a good cause.You're going to need: A metalworking drill pressThe pressure cookerA...
Step 3: Install the bulkhead fittingThis step is very easy, but it's also your biggest potential leak. Don't worry about that too much now; leak hunting is great sport in the world of vacuum chambers, and there's plenty of time for it later. Find your...
Step 4: Copper tubing and compression fittings It's finally time to put the pieces together.Cut two lengths of copper tubing. One length connects the fittings assembly to the pressure cooker. The other, longer, length connects the fittings to the vacuum...
Step 5: Final assembly Now is the time for that pressure cooker lid that you set aside earlier.The gasket that's in the lid of the Miro pressure cooker is very easy to remove. Just give it a gentle tug and work your way around the lid. It should come...
Two 74HC595s (wired in parallel) will be driving all the LEDs in the project as well as providing power to all of the buttons. The 74HC595 is an 8 bit serial in parallel out shift register. I've written a detailed tutorial about multiplexing with the...
The 74HC595 can only do parallel output, so I used a 74HC165 to measure the state of the buttons via 4 current limiting resistors and send this information to the Arduino. More info about the chip can be found on its datasheet.The 74HC165 has the following...
This instrument is primarily a MIDI device, so we need to build a MIDI out. There are two ways to do this (and over the course of this project I did one and then switched to the other):output MIDI via a 5 pin DIN connector output MIDI via USB (this is...
I attached a 2 axis gyroscope and 3 axis accelerometer onto this project so that I could add some interesting control to the device. The 5 degrees of freedom board from Sparkfun outputs data from its gyroscope and accelerometer as analog voltages. I...