First - If you have further questions on what was actually done, take a look at my two other videos on itCreating a Mr Gimmick Cart and This one I did on Earthbound, showing some wiring that is commonly required. There is a fabulous website that has...
PVC Cooling Jacket for CO2 Laser0PVC Cooling Jacket for CO2 LaserThe adventure begins while I was walking around the local home depot looking at ideas on how to build the laser. I was sort of making it up as I went. Mapping things out in my mind. I wanted...
Mirror Mounts0Mirror Mounts… where to begin, in many ways… these are the make or break it for this project. These have some very high tolerances and requirments. Especially considering I am doing this all by hand, after all, the goal of this project...
Assembling the tube1And now for assembling the laser tube itself. Things needed for this will be a bit of JB weld, a long thin dowl that fits inside your mirror mounts. This will help align them, much better than eyeing it. You will also need some 3/8th...
BROKEN!!!!! well, not really :>While I was doing the adjustments to it to make sure things were proper before I went further, I realised a very important fact. The Mirror mountings were out of alignment by .5mm ………..…….Ok, this might not sound like much,...
Axial Components:Were going to start with the polarized components theses only function in the correct orientation. The way to determine the way the go is simple, look for the band around the diode in theses case it is black. Match the band the the symbol...
Step 1 - Assemble the fittingsLet's get the easy part out of the way first. For this step, you'll need your bag of fittings, the valves, the pressure gauge, a roll of teflon tape, and a crescent wrench.Assembling brass fittings is pretty easy, but...
Step 2: Prepare the pressure cookerNow for the fun part. In this step, you'll be drilling a hole in your nice shiny new pressure cooker. I know, it's tough, but it's for a good cause.You're going to need: A metalworking drill pressThe pressure cookerA...
Step 3: Install the bulkhead fittingThis step is very easy, but it's also your biggest potential leak. Don't worry about that too much now; leak hunting is great sport in the world of vacuum chambers, and there's plenty of time for it later. Find your...
Step 4: Copper tubing and compression fittings It's finally time to put the pieces together.Cut two lengths of copper tubing. One length connects the fittings assembly to the pressure cooker. The other, longer, length connects the fittings to the vacuum...
Step 5: Final assembly Now is the time for that pressure cooker lid that you set aside earlier.The gasket that's in the lid of the Miro pressure cooker is very easy to remove. Just give it a gentle tug and work your way around the lid. It should come...
Step 6: Vacuum time Well, we're finally here. It's time to turn on the vacuum pump, and run for cover. Maybe.Before we actually flip the switch, a few words of caution from our sponsor.First, be sure to read the instructions that came with your pump....
Two 74HC595s (wired in parallel) will be driving all the LEDs in the project as well as providing power to all of the buttons. The 74HC595 is an 8 bit serial in parallel out shift register. I've written a detailed tutorial about multiplexing with the...
The 74HC595 can only do parallel output, so I used a 74HC165 to measure the state of the buttons via 4 current limiting resistors and send this information to the Arduino. More info about the chip can be found on its datasheet.The 74HC165 has the following...
This instrument is primarily a MIDI device, so we need to build a MIDI out. There are two ways to do this (and over the course of this project I did one and then switched to the other):output MIDI via a 5 pin DIN connector output MIDI via USB (this is...