PETG material is in! But test printing will be in the weekend.

PETG is only arriving on Monday, so other things to do.

PETG may be a solution to the ABS warping. I am going to try it.

I tried to use the object cooling fan, but the extruder nozzle fan lose so much heat that it can't keep the temperature up anymore.

I tried every single setting and test printed it, I think I can only go to an enclosed enclosure solution to print ABS. I need a box!

The 50 degrees heatbed is not good the ABS doesn't create a smooth layer. A brim and a skirt is probably a good thing but it adds enormous additional time to complete the print. A 12 hour print is maximum I am allowed this printer to work since I have to use it in a small apartment.

Now trying with a 100% object cooling fan. Up until know I had big issues to keep the heat-bed and extruder temperature under control. I hope the latest firmware may have fixed it.

0.2 mm layers did not solve the warping problem. But I found out that if you create support structure 0 degree then 45 then 0 then 45 it builds a stronger support structure and yet still easily to be pulled away in Siplify3D.

New experiment is having a heat-bed that is only 50 degrees warm

Did a 4 hour test print and I still have the warping problem using ABS and large prints that have corners. Now trying with 0.2 mm layers instead of 0.3 to see if that is resolving the issue.

Firmware upgraded to the latest, recalibrated the printer, oiled the bearings and used a small test print using the new Simplify3D to see the changes.

Simplify3D v4.0 just came out. Upgrading the Prussa firmware first and recalibrate the printer before testing the news Simplify3D. I am curious if the printing of sharp corners can now be resolved. Rounded never gave a problem.

ABS warping still is a big issue with this printer when the objects become big. It needs a temperature controlled enclosure.

Still a big mystery why my large solid models 3D print near perfectly but anything that has a support structure gets wrapped. Even a skrim does not prevent it from warping. Maybe it is the object cooling fan in combination of the shape of the support structure that causes the issue.

Still having issues with large 3D objects that needs a support structure on the print-bed. The support structure that tends to become high gets pulled off from the heat bed as the ABS plastic starts to wrap. 

Today I have my first model 7 hour print without issues. Silly that just a piece of tape to reduce the air intake of the plastic cooling fan suddenly make my 3D printing without worrying.

Hi all! on my page the first glimps of the graphical controller!
Basics has been fullfilled! Now the big works arrives making the
simulator and after that the real TCP socket connection between this
piece of software and the real robo arm!!!!
Take a look and give any comments as you like, all feedback is welcome!

You really do rock! :-)

This model I am printing is cursed! Yet again I notice a temperature drop when printing (247 degrees). It may be the shape of the model. This time I put a tape in front of the cooling fan to reduce its air flow. When I did this the temperature rose again.

I did notice when the temperature dropped below 252 that it was struggeling to keep the heatbed to 100 degrees.

Yet another thermal runnaway at exactly the same location and time. I notice the extruder temperature go down to about 231 degrees and then the printer resets again. This time I checked if the set temperature was set to 255 on the display and it did.

Another thermal runnaway after 1.5 hours into a 8 hour print. This time I can confirm that it cannot be a bad contact in the extruder thermic sensor connector. The cause is clearly a firmware issue.

I also heard for another colleague that he also has bad contacts in the extruder temperature sensor connector. 

He also reported several thermal runaway issues that aborts the print. A thermal runaway issue means that the sensor does not detect temperature changes within a certain time frame.

My print again stopped in a 3 hour job with a Thermal Runaway error. 

There is no evidence that this time is caused by a bad contact to the extruder thermal temperature sensor. I measured the model height, moved the model 5 mm lower and started another job. The plan is to glue the 2 parts together since it stopped at a place where there is no structural impact.

Soldering the temperature sensor wiring resolved the bad contact I had to the heat bed  temperature senor. The ABS temperature is set to 255 degrees and variations is between 252 and 257 no matter where the head is located. 

Before that, the temperature shown on the display jumped erratic depending on the zone the printer was. Until the printer decided to terminate the print with a "Thermal runaway" error.