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3D printing with Original Prussa I3 MK2/S

olaf-baeyensOlaf Baeyens wrote 11/05/2016 at 20:22 • 1 min read • Like

All my projects are being build using this 3D printer Original Prussa I3 MK2. This page is about my experiences with this printer as I go.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/11/2016 at 02:20 point

I should have known, the cooling down and preheating, did make the Prusa work nicely but the model started to come lose from the hotbed. So I had to trerminate the print.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/11/2016 at 01:21 point

I recall that there was a "change filament" option in the Prusa many but can't seem to find it. 

So I had no other chance then to pause the print, move the extruder sideways, unloaded the filament and load the new filament. When I pressed the Resume print, the printer continued where it left off. 

Now I am doing a second experiment, pause the print, and make the hotbed and extruder cool down. The plan is to see if I just can preheat it tomorrow and continue where I stopped the print. 

This would solve my 19 hour print, I can spread it across days.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/10/2016 at 23:15 point

Testing a new model on my 3D printer. This model is destined to fail but I want to see how big my Prusa can print and see what happens when I change a filament during printing. Can the Prusa continue the print like nothing happened or will I need a restart?

Stopping a print and start a new one from a certain layer won't work on the Prusa because it wants to recalibrate and there is a model alreadfy blocking the hotbed.


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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/10/2016 at 22:22 point

It is unclear why the temperature dropped but chance is that it was a bug in the gcode. Recreated the model and it now prints perfectly.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/10/2016 at 20:33 point

Started printing parts of the Thor robot parts but suddenly the heater starts to cool down. Aborting the print.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/06/2016 at 02:23 point

Contact spray did not resolve the bad contacts on the thermal header temperature sensor connnector.  You get a thermal runaway caused by the bad contacts and therefore uncontrollable temperature. The printer detects this and decided to stop the print.

So after 3 trials, I got fed up with it and soldered the contacts.

A big fat warning! It is harder than you would expect. The 2 wires are very thin and you almost can't expose the wire. The wire protection material is hard to get rid off.

Make sure that you have electrical shrink-wrap so you can bind the sensitive wiring after the soldering. If you don't, the wires will break.

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Olaf Baeyens wrote 11/05/2016 at 20:24 point

All my projects are being build using this Original Prussa I3 MK2. I adore this printer, it came in a self assemble package.

The assembly took longer than expected: 12 hours.

When I assembled it, I thought it would be easier, but even with the very
nice assembling guide, I had to use my own brain to get it right.

The biggest issue I have is the thermal head temperature sensor. Initially
it told me that is was only 14 degree and refuse to operate. In the end
it turned out to be a lose connection.
This thermal connector
still gives me head-aches, it appears that it does have bad contacts
causing the temperature measured to jump. I now cleaned it with a
contact cleaning spray. So far so good.

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