For replacing the USB connectors, see the build instructions. Here just a small update. My powerbank refused to charge and kept blinking its LEDS to indicate start of charging. Time to open it up!
1. The opened power bank
It was quite a search to look for the culprit, but in the end it was the ferrite bead. It looked fine but it was broken anyway. Which is quite logical, as the board flexes a bit at that point right next to the micro usb charing port. Anker should have placed the ferrite bead at a 90 degree angle to the usb ports.
2. The culprit ferrite bead
Anyway I replaced the bugger with the one stated in the component list and everything worked again. 2-0 on the repairs on my trusty powerbank. Keep repairing guys.
My Anker Astro E5 16000mAh powerbank has two USB connectors, but both were malfunctioning after some use. The batteries still have a lot of charge left in them. So I figured I should try to repair the powerbank.
Firstly, big thumbs up for the folks at Anker. I filed a RMA with them because I thought that on a Powerbank the USB connectors should be a bit more sturdy. The reply took a while, but I got full money back (Warranty is 18 months and I filed my RMA after 15 months). No questions were asked and I did not even have to send the powerbank back. Great job Anker.
Trying to pry this thing open is really hard without damaging the case. It got easier once I discoverd that behind the front and back panel are four screws that screw the cover tight. After removing the screws you can pry the case open with a screw driver around the edges. There are plastic clamps that hold the case togehter. Try not to damage the batteries and electronics inside while prying.
Inside was a nicely build pack. I thought there would be Panasonic cells inside, but this was not the case (those are green). But the cells are 3200mAh a piece.
You can try to remove the batteries, but they are stuck to the bottom side with double sided tape. Much easier is to desolder the three wires, remove the three screws and pry the PCB off.
After prying the PCB Off, remove the two USB connectors. This is very hard in one go, but if you solder the front contacts first, you can pull the case off the 4 USB pins, after which they can be removed one at a time.
Use a desoldering pump or Litze to clean out all solder holes.