Solder 12 straight male headers onto both the left and right sides of the Arduino. The long ends should be on the underside of the board.
Solder 6 right-angle male headers onto the side of the Arduino opposite the Reset button. The long ends should be on the underside of the board.
Solder the straight headers onto the side of the protoboard with the square pads. From the square pad side of the protoboard with the logo in the top right corner, they should be soldered as far right as possible and 7 pads from the bottom.
Solder the transceiver (SN75176B) anywhere on the board, but it makes the most sense to connect it close to the protoboard's logo. Connect pins 1, 2, and 5 to ground from the Arduino, and connect pins 3 and 8 to Vcc from the Arduino. Connect pin 4 of the transceiver to pin 10 on the Arduino.
Using the solder cups in the XLR jack, solder wires to pins 1, 2, and 3 on the XLR hack. For extra safety, also solder the chassis to pin 1.
Solder the lead from pin 1 on the XLR jack to ground from the Arduino. Solder the lead from pin 2 on the XLR jack to pin 7 on the transceiver. Solder the lead from pin 3 on the XLR jack to pin 6 on the transceiver.
Solder one lead from the resistor to pin 9 on the Arduino. Solder the other lead to an empty pad.
Cut the male ends from the jumper cables and strip the wire back so you are left with just the female ends with some leads. Solder one of the leads to the free lead from the resistor, and solder the remaining one to ground.
Connect the LED to the female headers: the short lead goes on the grounded header, and the long lead goes on the resistor header.
Connect the FTDI breakout board to the right-angle male headers on the Arduino.
Download the source code for the project from https://github.com/ajcord/DMX-84/archive/master.zi... and extract it.
If you haven't already, download and install the Arduino IDE from http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software.
From the source code directory, navigate to src/arduino/firmware and open the file firmware.ino in the Arduino IDE.
Connect the FTDI to your computer using a USB to USB Mini B cable. This is a standard cable you probably have lying around already.
Ensure the Arduino IDE is setup to build for "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (5V, 16 MHz) w/ ATmega328" and that the selected serial port corresponds to the FTDI.
Press Upload. Once the code uploads successfully, the LED should blink slowly. In the Serial Monitor, using a speed of 115200 baud, you should see a "Sent: ..." line and a "Ready" line.
Solder leads to the three connections on the audio jack. Using the datasheet, determine which connections are for ground, the tip, and the ring.
Solder the ground lead to ground from the Arduino, the tip lead to pin 6 from the Arduino, and the ring lead to pin 4 from the Arduino.
Using a drill press, drill the following holes in the enclosure:
- 7/8" hole centered on one one side of the enclosure for the XLR jack
- 1/8" holes for the screw attachments for the XLR jack
- 5/16" hole for the LED centered on the top of the enclosure
- Two 3/16" holes on the opposite side as the XLR jack for the USB port, to make it rectangular
- 1/4" hole for the audio jack on the same side as the USB
These measurements are approximate. Before drilling, verify that they match your specific hardware and mark them in the exact locations.
File the USB hole and the XLR hole as necessary to make the ports fit.
Once the paint is dry, snap the LED holder into the hole at the top of the enclosure. If necessary, hot glue it to keep it from coming out.
Place the XLR jack in its hole and bolt it in place.
Carefully snap the LED into its holder.
Bend the wires for the audio jack so it will match its hole at the same time the USB port does. Carefully place them in their holes. If the audio jack is panel mount, screw on the mounting ring.
Put the bottom on the enclosure and screw it together.
Spray paint two coats of black enamel on the enclosure, and then one or more coats of clear enamel on the enclosure. Clear coat the bottom of the enclosure one extra time for extra protection.
Hot glue the standoffs to the bottom of the enclosure in the correct positions to match up with the protoboard.
Screw the protoboard into the standoffs.
Connect the USB cable again and ensure it still works.
The adapter is complete!
Now, go to the source folder and navigate to src/ti. Send the file DMXDEMO.8Xp to your TI-84 using your preferred linking program. If you don't know how to do this, read http://tiwizard.com/transferring-programs-to-your-....
Note that there is also a file called DMXDEMO0.8Xp. This is the source code and is not what you want right now.
Connect the link cable to your calculator and the adapter. Also connect the USB linking cable to your calculator and the adapter. Make sure the A end is connected to the calculator and the B end is connected to the Arduino. The Arduino will not accept the A end.
Run DMXDEMO on your calculator by pressing the PRGM button, scrolling to DMXDEMO, and pressing Enter twice. It should turn on power to the Arduino, perform some commands, and turn off power. For a demo of what it should do, see the video below.
If you have any DMX equipment, you can connect it and try the setup out using the program called EOHDEMO.8Xp. Note that if you use 3-pin DMX equipment, you will need a 5-pin to 3-pin adapter.