How To Use OLED12864 LCD and Arduino Bluno To Make A Smart Clock. Isn’t it cool? The clock is small, and can be placed on the desk, posted on the wall, and even hidden in your pocket for easy carriage. Now start making!!!
I’ve always been dreaming of making a desktop clock which without complex functions, just smaller and can display time. Here is what I think:
- Small and convenient
- Inertial conduction, sensing the placement of clock
- Charging Function. My clock has the function of charging, using micro USB (any mobile phone charger can be used) for charging. Don’t worry about running out of power (unless you are too lazy to charge it…). I will show you the whole making procedures and source codes in the following.
Isn’t it cool? The clock is small, and can be placed on the desk, posted on the wall, and even hidden in your pocket for easy carriage. Now start making!!!
As my clock is small, and PH2.0 interface is relatively large, I decide to remove it, and switch to manually welding connection, as shown below:
Refer to the picture. Use diagonal cutting pliers to cut PH2.0 interface, and then use electric soldering iron to remove the needles, as shown below:
Use the same method to remove the PH interfaces on LIS2DH accelerometer module and charging module, ash shown below:
Parts circled in red in the picture need to be removed
Modify power supply of Bluno Beetle motherboard
By checking the schematic diagram, we can see that there are two LDO power chips on Bluno Beetle motherboard (VIN to 5V, and 5V to 3.3V). Bluetooth chip works on 3.3V, and ATMEGA328p chip on 5V (actually the working voltage of the chip is 1.8V~5V). Our lithium battery is 3.7V, so we can directly use lithium battery to power AEMEGA328p chip, changing the original 5V-3.3V to 3.7V-3.3V (feasible after test). Remove D1 diode on the schematic program, and connect the output power of our lithium battery directly to the 5V pin of Bluno Beetle motherboard (in fact, the 5V power line is changed to 3.7V), as shown below:
The corresponding place of diode on motherboard is shown below:
Note when dismantling, use electric soldering iron to remove one pin of diode, and then use tweezers to unceasingly fold the other pin of diode to make it facture naturally, as shown below:
Note: after removing the diode, it is impossible to download program to motherboard by inserting USB, as you switch it off.
Production of cable
As OLED screen and LIS2DH accelerometer apply I2C interfaces, wire-welding is very simple. It only needs to connect 4 lines, which are Gravity lines in the packaging box of sensor. Use diagonal cutting pliers to cut a length of about 5cm, as shown below:
Strip the skin with wire stripping pliers to expose copper wire (length is 3mm), then tinning.