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3D printed belt for Phillips CD-i

Using ninjaflex, I have revived a dead Phillips CD-i

netbeardnetbeard
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Ahh, belts. A surefire way to ensure your electronics have a finite shelf life.
My Phillips CD-i, which rarely sees any action except to inflict pain (humor?) on unsuspecting visitors, gave up the ghost recently.

The telltale sign of a failed belt was present, the disc tray motor merrily whirred away, but the tray stayed put.

The advantage here is that with 3D printing, you can have any size belt, custom or standard, in a matter of minutes instead of days or weeks to get one off eBay.

I've done this type of repair technique once before, previously on a disc changer for my father-in-law, so I was confident I could press the CD-i back into service.

The part was designed in 123D, and printed on a Lulzbot Taz 4, with the stock extruder, sliced with the Lulzbot edition of Cura using the PLA-fine configuration profile, printed at 230C nozzle, no bed heat.

All told, things went well, with no major setbacks.

Print details

  • Part designed in 123D Design
  • Sliced using the Lulzbot-provided PLA-fine configuration profile in Cura
  • Printed on a Lulzbot Taz4
  • Nozzle diameter of 0.35mm, at 230C
  • Blue tape on bed, no bed heat

ccyktvc.jpg

Underneath the CD drive.

JPEG Image - 694.96 kB - 02/20/2018 at 17:50

Preview
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20180210_174809.jpg

Nice interior picture of CD-i motherboard.

JPEG Image - 3.51 MB - 02/20/2018 at 17:45

Preview
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cd-belt-v4.123dx

This belt fits the disc tray pulleys of a Phillips Cd-i model 220.

123dx - 39.84 kB - 02/14/2018 at 05:16

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  • 1 × Ninjaflex TPU filament

View project log

  • 1
    Disassemble your victim

    Tear down the CD-i until you can access the disc tray pulleys.

    Here we can see where the belt should be.  I've removed the perished belt already.

    The front panel needs to come off to remove the disc tray.

    You can probably reach the pulleys at this point, but further disassembly is easy enough.

    This latch must be moved to pull the tray out completely.

    With the tray out of the way, now we can proceed.

  • 2
    Wrap a piece of string around the pulleys to get the circumference of belt needed.

    Use a piece of string to measure the length of belt needed.

  • 3
    Measure string

    Measure the string.  This will be your inner circumference of the new belt.

View all 6 instructions

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Discussions

Jayken wrote 11/02/2019 at 03:19 • point

And there I saw the ministrations of an electromechanical necromancer. 

The necromancer had a dark sense of humor which seemed appropriate given their line of research. 

In awe I whispered, "Neat."

  Are you sure? yes | no

omegalfapt wrote 04/26/2019 at 22:40 • point

Very cool!
It can solve a lot of players!
Congratulations!

For more info about CD-I Philips:
www.theworldofcdi.com

  Are you sure? yes | no

Ricardo Pereira wrote 02/22/2018 at 04:32 • point

Very cool 

  Are you sure? yes | no

BUT wrote 02/16/2018 at 13:09 • point

many times you may be able to find an O-ring of the proper size.

  Are you sure? yes | no

Martin wrote 02/15/2018 at 08:21 • point

It would be much more difficult to get this special filament and convince the printer to work with it, than getting a regular belt. If you get only one which is too long, they are easily cut and glued with superglue. Or you get a kit with just the rubber "string" and the glue.

  Are you sure? yes | no

netbeard wrote 02/15/2018 at 15:22 • point

Surprisingly, I didn't have to do any convincing at all!

For the TAZ4 this was printed on, the manufacturer recommends using their proprietary "flexystruder" but I didn't have any issues running it with the stock extruder, just slowly.

The small volume of the final print means a very quick and very cheap print, on the order of 10 minutes and pennies,  which is preferable to the week or more it usually takes to get a belt off ebay.

  Are you sure? yes | no

Ricardo Pereira wrote 02/22/2018 at 04:34 • point

We are hackers after all ? :D why buy if we can hack !

  Are you sure? yes | no

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