To improve the precision of the detection we are going to have to complexify the system by adding some LED on different digital ports of the board. As you can see on the pictures, I now have 15 LEDs (choose as many as you want) wired in a plastic brown...
Apply pressure on the pulley towards the end cap and secure the pulley to the endcap using the retaining screw. Ensure that the screw is not making contact with the belt.
If everything worked correctly you should now have control of the movement motors and end stops. Manually move the print head to the center of the printer. Next, the axes homing will be tested to ensure the motors are wired up correctly. Be prepared...
The box sections used in the chassis are far too heavy and so weight needs to be removed using the plasma cutter. A template is made in 2mm steel and clamped to the box section wherever a hole is required. Before cutting begins, a small hole is drilled...
Make a long wiring connector to the X and Y axis inputs that insert into the top of the electronics cabinet. Test the connector to the X and Y axes to find which pins show continuity to determine the 2 phases of the motors. Crimp the Microfit 3.0 crimps...
If you are not using an external LED ring, you'll have to solder the surface mount WS2812B RGB LEDs by hand. I think it works best if you use lots of flux, get the part into place, and then hit it with solder. Be aware of the corner with the notch...
The inserts should sit below the surface of the part, and but do not need to be aligned with the chamfers.Please note that the inserts used to secure the hotend clamp should be 'pulled' into their respective hole using a long screw (the M3x25 or M3x30...